The Kosher Terroir

Syrah Steps Into The Light

Solomon Simon Jacob Season 4 Episode 3

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Pepper, olives, violets, and a flash of smoke—one swirl is all it takes to see why Syrah might be the new heartbeat of kosher red wine. We follow the grape from Hermitage’s granite slopes to Israel’s basalt and limestone and then to Australia’s sun‑drenched valleys, mapping how climate and terroir turn one variety into a chorus of styles. Along the way, we dive into cellar choices—whole cluster or destemmed, French or American oak, mevushal or not—and explain how each decision reshapes texture, spice, and fruit.

We share the producers and bottles that anchor the category: Yarden’s benchmark Syrah from the Golan, Dalton’s lifted Upper Galilee expression, boutique natural Shiraz from Harkham in Hunter Valley, the accessible joy of Teal Lake, and California’s polished Herzog Special Reserve. You’ll taste with us, step by step, exploring inky color, blackberry and blueberry fruit, black pepper and smoked herbs, and a finish that stays savory and poised. We set Syrah beside Cabernet to show why one commands and the other connects—how Cab’s angular tannins and cedar line up against Syrah’s velvety frame and Mediterranean soul.

As the climate warms, Syrah’s thick skins and sun tolerance make it a resilient choice for Israel and beyond, aligning with sustainable farming and the growing demand for authentic, low‑intervention wines. We break down market tiers, value dynamics, and why younger drinkers gravitate to terroir‑driven styles that pair effortlessly with lamb, harissa, and charred eggplant. By the end, you’ll have a buying roadmap, a tasting framework, and a clear sense of why Syrah is gaining momentum across kosher shelves and restaurant lists.

Pour a glass and join the conversation. Subscribe for more deep dives, share this episode with a friend who loves bold reds, and tell us: which Syrah or Shiraz captured your story this week?

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S. Simon Jacob:

Welcome to The Kosher Terroir. I'm Simon Jacob, your host for this episode from Jerusalem. Before we get started, no matter where you are, please take a moment to pray for the safe return home of all our soldiers and the full return of all the remains of our hostages. If you're driving in your car, please focus on the road ahead. If you're relaxing at home, please open a delicious bottle of kosher wine and pour a glass, sit back and relax. Welcome to The Kosher Terroir. We're proud to be in our fourth season with well over a hundred episodes, more than 17,000 downloads and listeners in over 75 countries. It's humbling to know that wine lovers around the world are pouring a glass with us every time they tune in. In this episode, we're exploring a grape that stands quietly in the shadow of Cabernet Sauvignon. But in truth, it deserves the spotlight for its depth, versatility, and soul. I'm talking about Syrah, or as many of our Australian fans call it, Shiraz. This episode isn't just about facts and figures. It's about rediscovery, tasting the familiar through a different lens. We'll wander through basalt slopes in the Golan, limestone terraces in the Judean Hills, and river valleys in Australia, where Kosher Shiraz blooms under the southern sun, we'll speak of its history, culture, and taste. We'll compare Syrah's generosity to Cabernet's discipline. And by the end, I think you'll understand why I believe Syrah may well be the future voice of kosher red wine. So wherever you are in your kitchen, on your terrace, maybe driving through vineyard country, take a moment, pour yourself a glass. If it's a syrah, perfect, if not, imagine it. Deep purple, glinting ruby edges, swirling aromas of blackberries, crack pepper, and sun warmed earth. Let's begin. The name Syrah rolls off the tongue like poetry. Doesn't it? Sophisticated, continental French. Shiraz, by contrast, bursts with warmth, open, friendly, generous. They are the same grape, genetically identical, yet shaped profoundly by their environments. In France's northern Rhone, Syra is all elegance and restraint, small clusters, thin soils, cool winds. The wines are savory and pepper spiced, medium bodied with whispers of smoke and violets. Wines that need patience and understanding. If we cross the globe to Australia, the grapes take on a different rhythm. There, in the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, and Hunter Valley, sunlight saturates every berry. The result is lush fruit, softer tannins, and that exuberant ripeness that makes Shiraz one of the world's most popular reds. Kosher winemakers operate along that spectrum, from structured, mineral Israeli siraz to round, fruit forward Australian Shiraz. And this duality, this yin and yang, is what makes the varietal so captivating. It's both scholarly and sensual. It can wear a tuxedo or flip-flops. I often say Cabernet speaks to the mind. Sirah speaks to the heart. If you're tasting along, swirl your glass now. Look at the inky depth of color. Cabernet, for all its prestige, rarely shows this density in its youth. Sira practically glows, a visual cue to the drama inside the glass. To appreciate Sira's role in the kosher world, we must travel back. Centuries ago, on the granite slopes of Hermitage, vines clung to terraces carved by monks and merchants. The name Hermitage itself comes from a legend of a knight who sought solitude, Hermitage, planting vines during his exile. Syrah was his companion, and perhaps its symbolic it's a grape born of patience and reflection. As Europe's trade routes expanded, so did the vine. French colonists carried Syrah south to Algeria and later to South Africa. Missionaries and settlers took cuttings east to Australia, where the climate transformed its character and the pronunciation transformed its name. Now, how did it reach the kosher sphere? That's a story that begins in modern Israel. The rebirth of Israel winemaking in the late 20th century, led by Golan Heights Winery, Carmel and later innovators like Tabor, Dalton, and Tepperberg, marked a turning point. In the 1980s and 90s, as viticulture shifted from quantity to quality, growers realized Israel's microclimates mirrored those of the Mediterranean Rhone. Warm days, cool nights, limestone and basalt soils. Cabernet grew well, yes, but Syrah thrived, ripening fully without losing acidity. I remember visiting vineyards near Kafar Tikfa, walking among the rows of Sira as the late afternoon wind came off the Galilee hills. The fruit tasted alive, not just sweet, but layered with spice and a faint touch of salt. One winemaker told me, In Sira we find both our sun and our soul. That line stuck with me. Around the same time across the oceans, the Teal Lake Shiraz appeared on kosher shelves. It wasn't boutique, it was bold and accessible, juicy, reliable, and mevushal, which made it perfect for events and kosher caterers. For many, Teal Lake was their first sip of Shiraz, a friendly introduction that said yes, kosher wine can be both joyful and affordable. Between these two poles, Israeli Expression and Australian volume, Sirah quietly claimed its space. It was no longer just a blending wine. It became a storyteller. Let's step inside the winery for a moment. Sirah demands respect in the cellar. It ferments fast, sometimes vigorously, and winemakers often debate whether to use whole clusters, stems, or destemming entirely. Fermentation choices shape its texture. Leave stems in and you get more spice. Destem and you highlight fruit purity. In Israel, many producers aim for balance. They pick slightly earlier than the Australians to preserve acidity, use mostly French oak, and avoid heavy toasting. In the Kolan, you might find cool fermentations, accentuating pepper. In the Judean hills, slower, warmer ferments yield velvety richness. Mavushal treatment complicates things. Heat flash can dull delicate aromatics, which is why premium kosher sira is almost always non-Mavushal. But for banquet wines, Mavushal Shiraz remains essential, so the grape lives a dual life, a humble crowd pleaser, and a connoisseur's darling. You can even sense terroir differences across short distances. Galil Syrah structured, spicy, with hints of rosemary and thyme, from wild herbs. Judean Hills syrahs are elegant, mineral like crushed stone and black cherry. Negiv Syrah is ripe and sun driven. In Australia, kosher producers like Harkham wines take a more natural approach. Native yeasts, minimal sulfur, unfiltered. The result is a vivid living Shiraz bursting with energy. Alright, so now I'm thirsty, so let's taste together. If you have a bottle opened, pour about two fingers into your glass. Hold it over a white surface, see the deep inky core. Siraz pigments are among the densest of all red grapes, a gift for those who love color and extraction. Give it a swirl. Notice how the first wave of fruit, blackberry, blueberry, maybe plum, then comes spice, black pepper, cloves, sometimes smoked meat or olives. In warmer styles you might even catch chocolate or mocha. Take a sip. Sira is generous on entry, but finishes dry with a slightly savory tail. The tannins feel velvety, not coarse. While cabernet's shout structure, Cira whispers balance. Let it linger. This is the moment where Cira reveals its charm, that interplay between dark fruit and spice, sweetness and smoke. If you're pairing, think roasted lamb, harissa chicken, or mushroom risotto. Few wines kosher otherwise dance so gracefully with spice and smoke. If you're pairing, think roasted lamb, harissa chicken, or mushroom risotto, one of my favorites. Few wines kosher otherwise dance so gracefully with spice and smoke. Now, compare it mentally to Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet is stately. Think dark suit, boardroom confidence. Cirah's expressive. Think open collar, candlelight, a conversation that goes on late into the night. They both have merit, but they play different roles in your cellar and in your heart. It's worth reflecting on why Cirah feels particularly Israeli. Beyond climate, there's something emotional about it. It's a grape of sun and struggle. It flourishes in tough soils, needs intensity, but also restraint, much like the Israeli spirit itself. Even its flavors, spice, herbs, olive smoke, feel rooted in Middle Eastern cuisine. No surprise then that Israeli chefs adore pairing Sira with their dishes. A smoky lamb shelter with tahina and pomegranate molasses. Sirah sings, charred eggplant and Zatar, perfect. Few varietals express Mediterranean energy like this one. So we've traveled from history to vineyard, from cellar to glass. We've tasted Sira's soul and explored its origins. Now let's talk about place, the soil beneath the vines, the wind above them, and the people who coax flavors from both. Let's start in the Golan Heights. Altitudes above a thousand two hundred meters, basalt soils with sharp diurnal swings. The result? Wine of tension, black fruit framed by fresh acidity, and a savory line of black pepper. At Golan Heights Winery, the Arden Sira has become a benchmark, deep yet balanced, one of the first Israeli reds to earn international praise for varietal purity. Now, move south to the Upper Galilee. Vineyards near Dalton and Tabor sit on chalky limestone. The combination of high sunlight and cool nights creates Sira with floral lift. Think of violets, lavender, even rosemary. Dalton Estate Shiraz shows that purity, pepper and plum without heaviness. I once stood on their ridge at sunset. You could smell the time in the air, and that same note appears in the glass. Further south in the Judin Hills, producers like Flum, Tepperberg, and Agore craft Sirahs of finesse, medium body, minerality restraint. Cabernet grown here can feel rigid, Sira feels alive. Then, even further south is the negative. Harsh desert, long days, cold nights, wineries such as Nana, Midbar, and Pinto push viticulture to extremes. Their Sira is smoky, sullen, and truly israeli in defiance of the desert. Across the oceans, Australia remains the beating heart of Kosher Shiraz. Tea Lake Shiraz is produced in southeastern Australia, under the close monitoring of Royal Wine Corporation. Mavuchal, Fruitford, Joyful. It's the bottle you'll find at weddings, hotel bars, and synagogue fundraisers, the ambassador of accessibility. Then there's Harkom Wines in Hunter Valley. David Harkom's approach is the antithesis, natural fermentation, minimal sulfur, unfiltered, boutique kosher shirahs, earthy, honest, alive. One label reaches tens of thousands of consumers, the other just a few hundred collectors, yet both define the category's breadth. In California, the Herzog Special Reserve Sirah from Edna Valley captures coastal coolness, blueberries, espresso, smoky oak. Its new world ripeness balanced with old world polish, and one of the few kosher siraz aged like a fine roan. Smaller waves ripple from Stellenbach and Stellenrust in South Africa, where kosher Shiraz occasionally appears under the unorthodox or Jake Folk labels, peppery, value driven, and honest. In Spain, Sirah plays the role of a supporting actor and blends from LV wines, adding depth to Temperaniro and Granatcha. Every region paints Sira differently, yet the melody remains recognizably its own. Let's slow down and feel how these landscapes translate to taste. Hold your glass again. If you've got an Israeli Sira, you'll feel the stones, literally, a mineral vibration on the tongue that comes from limestone and basalt. If your wine is from Australia, the impression is heat and generosity. Blackberry compote, coca and spice. That difference isn't winemaking trickery, it's terroir. Each component impacts your taste buds. Tasting the soil, the salt gives you dark fruit and structure. Limestone, elegance and lift. Clay gives you density. The altitude of the vineyard makes a huge difference as well. Higher vineyards give you cool nights and higher acidity. Solar exposure, especially northern facing slopes, get more sunlight, which equals to ripening pepper flavors into sweetness. And the wind prevents rot, thickens skins, which equal intensification of flavors. In Israel, the Galilee Golan wind is legendary. Winemakers call it Ruachage, the wind of the vine. It whispers through the clusters each evening, concentrating sugars, but also preserving freshness. It's why Israeli Surah keeps its spine even at fourteen percent alcohol. Barrel aging adds another layer. Most Israeli wineries use French oak. Sometime much larger barrels, rather than the small barrels that are typical, to let fruit, not toast lead. Aged twelve to sixteen months, these wines find polish without losing authenticity. Meanwhile, Australian Shiraz often spends time in American oak, adding notes of vanilla and coconut. Charming but unmistakably new world. California's Herzog wineries sit between the two. French oak elegance with a Californian smile. Let's step back to the big picture. Global climate change is reshaping wine maps. Cabernet Sauvignon the King ripens later, demanding cooler nights to balance acidity. As temperatures rise, Cabernet risks becoming overripe, alcoholic, and flat in regions that once suited it perfectly. Syrah, though, is different. It's a survivor. Its thick skins protect against heat, and it can handle sun while still keeping aromatics alive. That makes it perfectly suited for Israel's Mediterranean climate. It also means that as global warming pushes to find north, Syrah may keep its grace where Cabernet starts to sweat. For kosher producers, that's huge. It means stability, consistency, and the chance to craft wines that reflect place better than panic. And there's another layer. Syrah's adaptability to sustainable farming, lower yields, organic viticulture, and dry farming methods all play nicely with Syrah's hardiness. For echo-minded kosher consumers, an audience growing each year, this is compelling. Now let's talk about market, the economics of taste, what these wines cost. Teal Lake Shiraz, Barkhan Classic Shiraz, and Tabor Selected Shiraz dominate shelves. They're Mavushal, food friendly, consistent, volume sellers for holidays and catering. They may not be profound, but they're a bridge between curiosity and connoisseurship. This entry level is between ten and eighteen dollars. Now let's go up a level to between twenty and forty dollars. Here's where complexity starts. Dalton Estate Shiraz, Yarden Syrah, Tulip Syrah, they all show genuine terroir, balanced oak, finesse. These bottles earn repeat customers who once lived solely on Cabernet. The next pricing segment, from forty five dollars and on up, includes Herzog Special Reserve Syrah from California, Covenants Syrah, Harcomangel Shiraz, and Yarden's single vineyard Baron Syrah. Powerful, ageworthy, collectible, small production but high influence. These wines receive, typically, ninety plus scores, and the whole kosher category benefits from it. Each tier feeds the next. Entry wines create exposure, mid tiers build trust, premiums elevate prestige. Cabernet may still outsell Syrah five to one, but Sira's growth curve, especially in Israel and export markets, is climbing. Royal Wine Corporation, Ketem, the Israeli boutique importer, now lists at least a dozen Sirah Shirazes in their skews. Mavushal versions reach banquet halls, non-Mavushal's anchor boutique stores, and online wine clubs. In the UK, kosher Sirah has begun appearing on Michelin star restaurant lists, often replacing Cabernet for pairings with lamb and duck. Because production costs are lower, Syrah yields more consistent crops. Wineries can offer better value. That means higher margins for distributors and better price quality ratios for consumers. In a market increasingly sensitive to value, that's a quiet revolution. Let's summarize before our next pour. Focusing on the attribute of flavor, Cabernet Sauvignon has Cassis, cedar and graphite, sira and Shiraz, blackberry, pepper, and olives. As far as structure is concerned, Cabernet Sauvignon is firm with angular tannins. Sirah and Shiraz silky and supple in texture. As far as their needs from climate, Cabernet needs it to be cooler to allow longer ripening. Sirah and Shiraz adapt to warmth. The drinking window, Cabernet Sauvignon is best with age. Sirah and Shiraz are approachable earlier. As far as food pairing, Cabernet Sauvignon pairs well with steaks and aged cheese, Cira and Siraz with lamb and Mediterranean spice. As far as the kosher market share is concerned, Cabernet Sauvignon is clearly 60% of the red listings, and Cirah and Shiraz are only about 15 to 20%. Cabernet has legacy, Sirah has momentum. Cabernet shows power, where Syrah shows personality, and personality is what today's wine lovers crave. So we've traveled from the Rhone to the Galilee, from the cellar to the spreadsheet. We've tasted Syrah's spice, studied its soils, and looked at its growing market. Now let's shift our lens from the winemaker's hands to the consumer's glass. Let's start with what we hear most often from listeners and tasters. These are drinkers who fell in love with Syrah's personality. They describe it as the Israeli red, bold yet balanced, earthy yet aromatic. They love that Syrah feels more connected to local food culture. Lamb skewers, Zata chicken, brisket rubbed with pomegranate molasses. One listener from Toronto wrote, I stopped buying Cabernet because it overpowered most of my meals. Sirah feels like it grew beside the food. Others praise the spice. They call it the pepper wine. When they swirl a glass of Galilee Syrah and catch that whiff of black pepper and wild herbs, it's like the vineyards are whispering through the bottle. Every grape needs its critics, and Sirah has them too. Some consumers say, I just don't know what to expect. That's fair. Sirah can range from lean and smoky to rich and jammy, depending on region. For Cabernet drinkers who crave predictability, Sirah's spectrum can feel confusing. Others complain of certain Australian Shiraz styles that are too sweet or too heavy. But here's the irony, those same consumers often fall in love when they taste an Israeli Sirah blind. When the label disappears, biases fade. Many are surprised to learn that the elegant, balanced red they just praised wasn't a cabernet at all. Younger wine drinkers, especially those under forty, are exploring beyond brand loyalty. They want authenticity, story, sustainability. Sirah delivers all three. Boutique producers offering single vineyard bottlings, natural fermentations, or low intervention wine making attract these curious palates. At tastings I often see them holding a glass of Sira, photographing it for Instagram, captioning Mediterranean energy in a bottle. That's modern branding gold. For holiday meals and large gatherings, price and Mavushal status still drive decisions. Here, Shiraz's approachability helps. Tea Lake, Barkan Classic, and Tabor's entry-level labels have become the family reds. They pour easily, please widely, and don't intimidate guests. These wines build comfort, and comfort builds loyalty. The kosher wine industry listens carefully to these voices. Many Israeli producers are moderating oak use, harvesting slightly earlier and focusing on elegance over extraction, responding to drinkers who want freshness. Australian producers, some are dialing back alcohol levels, offering lighter, food friendly Shiraz styles. Labels now highlight vineyard elevations, non-mavusal status, or Mediterranean blend, language to guide consumers. Education is the key. Once drinkers understand why Syrah tastes different, they embrace it. Cabernet appeals to hierarchy. Sirah appeals to connection. If you can grab a cabernet you know and love, maybe a Yarden cab or a Herzog reserve, besides it, pour a Sirah of similar vintage. Let's taste It together. As far as the color is concerned, Cabernet often shows a deep garnet. Cira leans towards violet blue and with thick legs from glycerol. Aromas. The Cabernet brings black currant, graphite, and cedar. Cirah offers plum, black olive, pepper, and smoked herbs. Texture. Take a sip of Cabernet. Feel that firm linear structure. Now taste Syrah. Notice the rounder entry, the silky mid palate and savory exit. From an emotional perspective, Cabernet commands respect. Sira invites intimacy. Pause there and reflect a bit. Ask yourself which wine you'd reach for on a quiet Friday night with friends, and which you'd choose for a formal dinner. Both have their place, but one tells a different story each time you sip it. That variability, that emotional resonance is what makes Syrah so fascinating. Beyond taste, Sira symbolizes evolution in the kosher world. It bridges Mediterranean cuisine with modern winemaking. Its resilient and warming climates making it sustainable long term. It offers better value and diversification for wineries reliant on Cabernet sales. It challenges both winemakers and drinkers to explore nuance instead of comfort. In short, Syrah represents a maturing kosher wine market, confident enough to step outside Cabernet's shadow and express individuality. As we put down our glasses tonight, let's recap. We've traced Sira from ancient Rome terraces to modern Israeli ridges. We've learned how climate, soil, and philosophy shapes its style. We've met the producers from accessible Teal Lake to the artisanal Harkham, and we've heard the voices of those who drink it, love it, and sometimes resist it. Sirah has earned its place. It's not a novelty, not a niche. It's a narrative, a conversation between the land and the people who believe in it. And maybe that's why it resonates so deeply. Because wine at its heart is about story, and this story is still being written. So here's my invitation to you, wherever you're listening from, seek out Kosher Sira this week or Shiraz. Maybe an entry-level bottle for a family dinner or a single vineyard release to slowly savor. Taste it with curiosity. Compare it to your favorite cabernet. See which one tells your story more truthfully, and then share it with us. Tag The Kosher Terroir on social media. Send your tasting notes. Tell us where you found your bottle. Because our community thrives on shared discovery. Before we sign off, remember that The Kosher Terroir now boasts over a hundred episodes, over 17,000 downloads, and listeners in more than 75 countries. If you've enjoyed this journey, explore some of our previous episodes. The Carignan Chronicles, Grinache, the Enchantress of the Mediterranean, Sustainability and Biodynamics, and AI and the future of kosher wine. Subscribe, review, share, and most importantly, pour yourself something meaningful next Shabbat. From the Galilee to the Rhone, from Hunter Valley to your table, remember, every bottle tells a story, and every terroir has a soul. I'm Simon Jacob, and this has been the Kosher Terroir. This is Simon Jacob again, your host of today's episode of The Kosher Terroir. Please subscribe via your podcast provider to be informed of our new episodes as they are released. If you're new to The Kosher Terroir, please check out our many past episodes.