The Kosher Terroir

Beyond Cabernet: Why Tannat Deserves a Place at Your Table

Solomon Simon Jacob Season 3 Episode 34

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Dive into the extraordinary world of Tannat, a grape that commands respect with its bold structure, remarkable longevity, and fascinating journey across continents. While many wine enthusiasts gravitate toward Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, Tannat offers something profoundly different – a powerful red with ancient origins that challenges our assumptions about what bold wines can be.

Tannat's story begins in the rugged foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, where medieval monks cultivated this robust grape to fortify pilgrims traveling the Camino de Santiago. Known as "the black wine of Madiran," these wines were so densely tannic that sailors prized them for their ability to withstand long sea voyages without spoiling. But Tannat's most dramatic chapter opened in the 1870s when Basque immigrants brought cuttings to Uruguay, where the grape found its second home and evolved into something extraordinary – maintaining its power while gaining approachability and elegance. Today, Tannat stands proudly as Uruguay's national grape, much as Malbec does for neighboring Argentina.

What makes Tannat particularly remarkable is its scientific distinction as the grape variety with the highest tannin content – often twice that of Cabernet Sauvignon – contributing not only to its structure and aging potential but potentially to health benefits linked to the "French paradox." Modern winemaking techniques have transformed what was once an austere, almost unapproachable wine into something that can show surprising finesse while maintaining its distinctive character. For kosher wine enthusiasts, Tannat represents an exciting frontier, with producers in Uruguay, Israel, and elsewhere crafting bold, age-worthy kosher Tannats that pair brilliantly with everything from traditional meats to unexpected companions like blue cheese and dark chocolate.

Join us on this journey through Tannat's remarkable history, from ancient vineyards to modern innovations, as we discover why this once-obscure varietal deserves a prime spot in your wine exploration. Whether you're a seasoned collector or curious newcomer, Tannat's story of adaptation and resilience offers both sensory pleasure and a compelling narrative that mirrors the evolution of wine culture itself. Pour yourself a glass and discover why Tannat might just be the next great discovery in your kosher wine journey.

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Solomon Simon Jacob:

Welcome to The Kosher Terroir. I'm Simon Jacob, your host for this episode from Jerusalem. Before we get started, I ask that, wherever you are, please take a moment and pray for the safety of our soldiers and the safe return of all of our hostages. Welcome back, dear listeners, to The Kosher Terroir, the podcast where we explore the rich tapestry of kosher wines, the people behind them and the stories that have shaped the world of wine as we know it. World of wine as we know it. I'm Now, if you're like most wine lovers, when you think of bold reds, your mind probably goes first to Cabernet, Sauvignon, or Syrah, but today we're turning the spotlight on a grape that is often flown under the radar. Jacob, your host, and today we are about to embark on a journey that will take us across continents, through centuries of history and deep into the heart of one of the most intriguing and powerful grape varieties Tannat. Yet it has a cult following, a fascinating backstory and a flavor profile that commands respect. Tannat this is a variety that doesn't just whisper complexity, it roars it.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

In this episode, we're going to peel back the layers of Tanat's remarkable story. We'll explore its ancient origins and how it migrated from its birthplace in the foothills of the Pyrenees to new lands where it has found a second home and a whole new identity. We'll uncover how this once rustic and tannic grape became the national pride of Uruguay and why some of the world's most passionate winemakers are now championing Tannat as the varietal of elegance, structure and surprising finesse. You'll hear about how Tannat earned its reputation as a grape that can outlast time itself, producing wines of immense longevity, capable of aging gracefully for decades. We'll share compelling stories from the vineyard, from small family plots in the French heartland to expansive estates in South America. And we'll reveal some lesser-known facts, like how Tannat has found its way into the kosher winemaking world and how new techniques are transforming what's possible with this ancient grape.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

But why does Tenat deserve your attention as a kosher wine lover? Well beyond its sheer power and potential, tenat challenges us to rethink what bold red wines can be. It forces us to reconsider our assumptions about structure, ageability and food pairing and, perhaps more importantly, to not invite us into a conversation about tradition, innovation and identity in the wine world. After all, this is a grape that had to migrate, adapt and reinvent itself, much like the communities that have shaped kosher wine history across the centuries. So whether you're a seasoned collector looking for your next cellar-worthy bottle or a curious newcomer eager to discover something off the beaten path, I promise by the end of this episode you'll never look at a Tannat the same way again.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

What makes Tannat one of the most tannic grapes in the world? How did it become a symbol of national pride in Uruguay? And why do French farmers still revere it? Is Tannat always a powerhouse, or can it show elegance and grace? And in the kosher wine world, where does Tannat? Always a powerhouse or can it show elegance and grace? And in the kosher wine world, where does Tannat fit in? Is it the future of bold kosher reds? Well, we'll answer that and so much more in the episode ahead.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

If you're driving in your car, please focus on the road ahead. If you're relaxed at home, please pour yourself a glass, maybe of a robust red. If you have one handy, settle in and join me as we journey through the world of Tannat. Let's begin, as always, with its roots. The history of this extraordinary grape. Tannat's story, begins in the rugged, It is here, in these stony soils and cool mountain breezes, that Tannant first took root. foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, a land straddling modern-day southwestern France and the Basque region. The grape's name, as you might guess, comes from its defining characteristic, its extraordinary tannic structure. In old Gascon dialect, the word Tannat is closely tied to tannin, the term for the tannins that give red wines their backbone and structure.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

From its earliest cultivation, tannat was a grape for those who valued strength and longevity in their wines. Local farmers and winemakers in Monduron, a small appellation near the heart of Gascony, recognized that Tannat yielded wines so dense, so astringent in their youth, that they could endure years, even decades, of aging. A wine of patience, of waiting, a wine that mirrored the character of the land and the people Tannat was firmly established in Madiran and the who nurtured it. By the Middle Ages, surrounding Béarn and Basque territories. Monasteries played a crucial role in its development, as monks cultivated Tannat vines alongside other traditional varietals, producing wines not only for local consumption but also for pilgrims journeying the Camino de Santiago. These were wines meant to fortify body and spirit, robust companions for the long and arduous trek to Santiago de Cambastea.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tannat remained largely a local treasure for centuries, its cultivation mostly limited to small plots scattered across the hillsides of Madiran. Across the hillsides of Madiran, the wines were rustic, dark and tannic to the point of being nearly undrinkable in their youth, yet fiercely beloved by those who appreciated their aging potential. Traditionally, these wines were blended with small amounts of other local grapes, such as Cabernet Franc or Verre, to soften their harsh edges. But Tannat's destiny would change dramatically in the 19th century. Like many European varietals, tannat faced devastation during the Phylloxera epidemic that swept across France. As vineyards were replaced and reimagined, tannat held on stubbornly, like the grape itself. Yet the most dramatic chapter in its global journey was just about to begin.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

In the 1870s, basque immigrants brought Tannat cuttings with them as they settled in South America, particularly in Uruguay. South America, particularly in Uruguay. These early settlers, many of whom longed for the taste of home, planted Tannat in the rich soils of their adopted land. Little did they know that Uruguay would one day claim Tannat as its national grape, transforming its identity forever. Uruguay's climate proved a revelation for Tannat the Atlantic breezes, the warm sun and the clay loam soils produced grapes that retained the power and structure of the French Tannat, but gained a softness, a fruit-forward character and a drinkability that would have astonished those old farmers, Madiran. What in France had been a wine of endurance and austerity became in Uruguay, a wine of generosity and approachability, still bold, still structured, but with an elegance that drew new admirers.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

By the mid-20th century, Tannat was firmly entrenched in Uruguay's wine culture. Small family wineries, many still run by descendants of those original Basque immigrants, began refining their techniques, experimenting with oak aging, micro-oxygenation a technique pioneered by the French winemaker Patrick de Cournot to tame Tannat's tannins, and later modern vineyard management to produce wines of both power and grace. Meanwhile, back in Today, Madiran wines, while still firm and structured, are far more accessible in their youth, showcasing dark fruit, spice, and earthy tones that reflect both tradition and innovation. France, tannat continued to evolve. Modern winemaking uses uses gentler extraction methods. The use of new oak blending strategies allowed winemakers in Madiran to soften Tannat's once brutal edges.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, tannat began attracting attention beyond its strongholds of Medellin and Uruguay. In the United States, particularly in California's Central Coast, paso Robles and even Virginia, pioneering winemakers planted Tannat, drawn to its reputation for structure, ageability and unique character. In Israel, where the kosher wine world has expanded its varietal horizons in recent decades, tannat plantings are rare but growing, with a few adventurous producers experimenting with single varietal bottlings and blends, recognizing the potential for Tannat's bold structure to pair beautifully with rich cuisine. Tannat's global rise speaks to the modern wine drinker's growing appetite for authenticity, for wines that tell a story of place and time, of struggle and triumph. It is a grape that has never sought the easy path From the craggy slopes of Madiran to the sunlit vineyards in Uruguay. Tannat has always demanded the best of its growers, its winemakers and, yes, its drinkers.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tenat's history isn't just a timeline of where it was planted and how it was vinified. It's a tapestry woven with powerful moments, bold characters and twists of fate that transform a rustic tannic grape into a symbol of resilience and national pride. Let's start with an early fact. Tannat was once called the black wine of Madiran, and for good reason. In the 17th and 18th centuries, madiran's tannat-based wines were so dark and dense that merchants shipping barrels down the Adour River and out of the ports of Bayonne would joke they could patch a sail with a splash of it. Sailors prized the wine for its longevity on long sea voyages. It didn't spoil easily, thanks to the same tannins that made it challenging to drink young.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

The Phylloxera devastation of the 19th century is a key moment in Tannat's tale. While phylloxera ravaged French vineyards, wiping out entire regions, madurin's small, scattered plantings of Tannat managed to survive in pockets longer than some other varietals simply because the region was remote and less connected. But ultimately, like nearly all European vines, tannat too had to be grafted onto American root stock to survive. That shift forever altered vineyard practices and ushered in modern viticulture to the region. And then came one of the most remarkable migrations in the history of wine Tannat's journey to Uruguay.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

In the 1870s, Pascal Harriague, a Basque immigrant, brought Tannat cuttings to Uruguay, likely as a reminder of home. Harriague was a visionary and his plantings near Salto in the north of the country thrived. His success inspired others and Tanat quickly spread across Uruguay, outcompeting other varietals and becoming a symbol of national agricultural identity. To this day in Uruguay, you'll sometimes hear Tannat referred as Harriague in his honor. In a compelling twist, tannat became a symbol of national identity for Uruguay in much the same way Malbec did for Argentina, but with a smaller global spotlight. Tannat festivals, national competitions Tannat was officially recognized as Uruguay's national grape, a testament to how this European transplant and even government promotions of tannat wines are part of Uruguay's cultural fabric. In 2002, became part of the country's soul.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Back in France, a more recent chapter in Tannat's history centers on Patrick du Cournau, the winemaker who, in the 1980s, pioneered the use of micro-oxygenation, a technique that bubbled tiny, controlled amounts of oxygen into the wine during fermentation and aging. This process helped tame Tannat's famously harsh tannins, softening the wine without long aging. Du Cournau's work didn't just change how Tannat was made. It revolutionized winemaking for tannic stories, too, such as that of Bodega Garzón worldwide. There are other modern stories in Uruguay, whose ambitious investment in state-of-the-art technology and sustainable viticulture helped put Uruguayan Tannat on the global fine wine map in the 21st century. Their wines earned accolades from critics who previously hadn't paid much attention to Tannat. Today, Garzón's Tannats are exported around the world, including to the kosher wine market.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Another remarkable fact is that tannat is one of the few grapes studied for its potential health benefits, due to its extremely high levels of procyanidins, a type of tannin believed to support cardiovascular health. Tannat wines from Madiran have been cited in research related to the so-called French paradox. It's a rare example of grape varieties making headlines not just for taste but for its possible contribution to longevity. And finally, let's not forget the small, quiet revolution in Israel. While not widespread, a handful of Israeli producers are now experimenting with tannat, drawn by its potential to produce kosher wines that are both bold and structured, capable of aging gracefully and pairing with rich, traditional dishes.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

These are early days, but the seeds of the new tannat chapter, capable of aging gracefully and pairing with rich, traditional dishes. These are early days, but the seeds of the new Tannat chapter are already being planted. So when you pour a glass of Tannat, you're not just tasting wine, you're tasting centuries of struggle, migration, innovation and identity Inky, black, powerful and utterly unforgettable. Okay, so you've heard all about Tannat's power, its bold tannins and its journey from France to Uruguay. But, like many great grapes, tannat carries with it a treasure trove of lesser-known facts, surprising truths and a few stubborn misconceptions. Let's peel back the curtain and explore what many wine lovers, even seasoned enthusiasts, don't know about this mighty varietal.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

We often say that certain wines are tannic, but in the case of tannat, science backs up the claim. Studies have shown that tannat has the highest levels of tannins of any known grape variety used in commercial winemaking. In fact, its tannin content is often double that, or more, of Cabernet Sauvignon. This isn't just about mouthfeel. Those tannins contribute to its remarkable ageability, its deep color and its role in the so-called French paradox, where the consumption of red wine is linked to lower rates of heart disease. Speaking of the French paradox, while many grapes contain beneficial polyphenols and antioxidants and antioxidants, tannats' procyanidin levels are off the charts. Some studies even point to Madiran tannat as among the richest wines in heart-healthy compounds. In fact, researchers examining the diet of southwestern France's inhabitants link their longevity in part to their regular consumption of Tannat-based wines. So while moderation is always key, it's nice to think that Tannat might offer more than just sensory pleasure.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Here's a fact that surprises many people Uruguayan Tannat isn't genetically identical to French Tannat anymore. Over the last century and a half, the tannat vines in Uruguay have evolved, adapting to local soils, climates and vineyard practices. Dna analysis have revealed subtle but meaningful differences. Some Uruguayan Tannat clones produce softer tannins or more pronounced fruit character than the European ancestors. This helps explain why Uruguayan Tannat tends to be rounder and more approachable in youth.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

One of the biggest misconceptions about Tannat is that it's always rough, rustic and challenging to drink young. While that might have been true of traditional Madiran bottlings in the past, modern tannat can be surprisingly elegant. Winemakers today use gentle extraction, shorter maceration times, careful oak aging and techniques like micro-oxygenation to tame the grape's wilder nature. The result Tannat's that can show velvety textures, rich dark fruit and spice, and sometimes even within a year In the US, it has gained a loyal following in Paso Robles, Texas, Hill Country, Arizona, and Virginia. Though most associated with Madiran and Uruguay, Tannat, has quietly spread around the world. In Brazil and Argentina, small plantings are producing noteworthy vines. And yes, even in Israel Tannat is emerging, with a handful of daring kosher producers experimenting with the varietal.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tannat's global map is more diverse than most people realize. We often hear Tannat recommended with heavy meats lamb, beef, game but did you know that in Uruguay, some locals swear by pairing Tannat with blue cheese and even dark chocolate desserts. Actually, both of those are my favorite. The wine's tannins interact with the fat and salt of the cheese and the bitterness of the dark chocolate in ways that can be surprisingly harmonious. And here's one to try to, not alongside grilled eggplant or smoky mushrooms. It's a pairing that brings out both the earthiness of the food and the depth of the wine.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

One fascinating niche that many don't know about kosher tannat, especially from Uruguay, is becoming a quiet favorite among adventurous kosher wine drinkers. Though the quantities are still small, these wines offer bold, age-worthy options for those seeking something beyond the usual suspects, like Cabernet and Syrah, and because tannats natural tannins give structure without needing much intervention. It's a grape that fits well with kosher production methods emphasizing minimal additives. And here's a curiosity Some ampelographers say that three times fast. Those are people who study grapevines in their history believe that Tannat may share ancestry with certain ancient Basque and Iberian grapes that are now nearly extinct. This theory, though not fully proven, hints to Tanat's deep historical roots, perhaps stretching back far earlier than its known cultivation in Madiran.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tannat is a grape of hidden depths, literally and figuratively. Beneath its dark skins lie a world of complexity, history and surprise. The next time someone tells you Tannat is just a tannic brute, you'll know better. You'll know it's a grape of nuance, culture and untold stories. As we reach the end of our journey with Tannat, I invite you to pause for a moment and reflect on what this extraordinary grape represents, not just in the glass, but the wider story of wine, culture and resilience.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tannat isn't just a grape of tannins and dark color. Grape of tannins and dark color, it's a symbol of endurance, from its origins in the rugged hills of Madiran, monks monks eke out a living from stony soils, to its rebirth across the Atlantic and Uruguay, where it transformed into a gentler, more approachable wine. Without losing its soul. Tenat teaches us about adaptation. It reminds us that sometimes strength lies in flexibility, that boldness and refinement are not opposites they can coexist, harmonize and elevate each other.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

In the world of kosher wine, tanat opens doors. It challenges us to look beyond the familiar and to embrace varietals that may not yet be household names, but which offer richness, depth and unique voice. As more kosher producers experiment with Tannat, whether in Uruguay, israel or even California, they're pushing boundaries. They're offering kosher wine lovers the chance to experience something both ancient and new, something that defies easy categorization. And isn't that the beauty of wines? Each bottle is more than fermented juice it's history, geography, tradition and human creativity, all bottled up and waiting to be shared.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tannat's story reminds us that wine is a conversation between the land and the vine, between the winemaker and the drinker, between the past and the present. So here's my invitation to you the next time you're browsing for a bottle, whether at your local shop, online retailer or just at a tasting seek out a Tannat. Just at a tasting, seek out a Tannat, whether it's from Madiran, Uruguay, or a kosher producer pushing the envelope. Give this grape a chance to speak to you, taste its depth, feel its structure, listen to its story. If you find a kosher tanat, I'd love to hear about it. Share your experience with me, message me through The Kosher Terroir website or connect on social media.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Let's build a community that explores together and finally revisit the episodes We've explored varietals like Carignan, Grenache, and Colombard, on The Kosher Terroir you may have missed. We've journeyed through the histories of wineries, the minds of winemakers and the complexities of kosher certification. Each episode is a chapter in this ongoing conversation and I hope you'll be joining me for many more. In our upcoming episodes we'll be diving into the stories of other grapes and regions that deserve the spotlight. We'll meet winemakers innovating in the kosher space. We'll explore ancient vineyards reborn and we'll ask big questions what does the future of kosher wine look like? How can tradition and technology coexist in the vineyards and cellars? So if you've enjoyed this journey with Tannat, I hope you'll subscribe, share this episode and invite others to join us. Thank you for being part of this exploration.

Solomon Simon Jacob:

Tannat's story is far from over, and neither is ours. Together, we'll continue to uncover the hidden gems of the wine world. One glass, one episode, one conversation at a time. Until next time, l'chaim Cheers. This is Simon Jacob, again your host of today's episode of The Kosher Terroir. I have a personal request no matter where you are or where you live, please take a moment to pray for our soldiers' safety and the safe and rapid return of our hostages. Please subscribe via your podcast provider to be informed of our new episodes as they are released. If you're new to The Kosher Terroir, please check out our many past episodes. Bye.

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