The Kosher Terroir
We are enjoying incredible global growth in Kosher wine. From here in Jerusalem, Israel, we will uncover the latest trends, speak to the industry's movers and shakers, and point out ways to quickly improve your wine-tasting experience. Please tune in for some serious fun while we explore and experience The Kosher Terroir...
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The Kosher Terroir
Sipping Through Time: Unearthing Israel's Ancient Grapes and Modern Wine Wonders
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As we uncork the mysteries of winemaking in the historic vineyards of Israel, Dr. Shivi Drori and Yiftach Lustig join us to weave a tale of ancient grapes and modern triumphs. Our glasses are filled with the fruits of their labor as we sip on Gva'ot Winery's finest and discuss the rediscovery of native grape varieties once lost to time. The narrative takes us through the evolution of Israeli viticulture, from the influence of Islamic rule to a significant pivot in the 1880s that favored European grapes over indigenous ones. Wine connoisseurs Kenny Friedman and Dr. Samuel Soffer lend their palates to the conversation, ensuring every pour is a historical homage to the land's deep-rooted viticultural heritage.
Venture into the vinicultural vaults as we unravel the complexities of growing Pinot Noir in the unique terroir of Israel. This episode's stories reveal the delicate artistry required to nurture this temperamental varietal, including an enlightening mishap where drought led to a case of mistaken identity between Pinot Noir and Syrah. Meanwhile, the ancient Bituni grape offers a taste of innovation through its fermentation process, showcasing the harmonious blend of time-honored methods and modern techniques that characterize Israeli winemaking.
In our final pour, the conversation matures like a fine wine, exploring the depth and range of Israel's viticultural offerings. From the age-defying Cabernet grown just steps away from the winemaker's home, to the yearly metamorphosis of the Masada blend, we honor the craftsmanship behind these exceptional wines. We raise our glasses to 'Raz,' a poignant tribute to a hero's memory, and reflect on the bond of trust woven between winemaker and wine aficionado. Join us in toasting to the resilience and beauty of Israeli wines, a sentiment echoed in my heartfelt hope for safety and peace, with an open invitation to explore and support this remarkable winemaking region.
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We have arranged a discount for our US customers choosing to purchase Gváot Wines by using the following link "https://bit.ly/47WEuC7"
or by logging into www.KosherWine.com and using the coupon code "SIMONJ"
Israeli and UK/European purchase arrangements will follow shortly...
Gváot Winery
https://www.gvaot-winery.com/
Opening Hours: Sunday-Thursday: 9:00 am-5:00 pm - Friday: 9:00 am-1:00 pm
- MAP & DIRECTIONS - Recommended to write in WAZE: יקב גבעות, גבעת הראל
- In front of Shile settlement, 10 min from Ariel on road 60
- To coordinate winery visits: Moshe Weiner - 052-7757574
- To order wine and other inquiries: Eliav Miller – CEO of the winery
Dr. Shivi Drori WineMaker:
ShiviDrori@gmail.com
Kenneth Friedman:
https://www.instagram.com/kosherwinetastings/
www.TheKosherTerroir.com
+972-58-731-1567
+1212-999-4444
TheKosherTerroir@gmail.com
Link to Join “The Kosher Terroir” WhatsApp Chat
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Thursdays 6:30pm Eastern Time on the NSN Network and the NSN App
Welcome to The Kosher Terroir. I'm Simon Jacob, your host for this episode from Jerusalem. Before we get started, I ask that, wherever you are, please take a moment and pray for the safety of our soldiers and the safe return of all of our hostages. Some good friends visiting from the US gathered together in Israel with me to visit some local wineries From Baltimore, Maryland. Kenny Friedman, the wine writer, promoter and social media influencer, joined us with his wife and daughter. From New York, Dr. Samuel Soffer, the social media wine enthusiast, joined us with his son.
S. Simon JacobThe following episode of The Kosher Terroir is an interesting educational conversation and wine tasting with Dr Shivi Drori, the head winemaker at Gváot Winery, and his wine consultant, Yiftach Lustig. Dr Drori is an agronomist and researcher in Viniculture and Anology at Ariel University, where he has spearheaded a research study recovering approximately 60 ancient varieties of wine grapes from the land of Israel in general and Sumeria in particular, from which wines have been produced for thousands of years. Yiftach Lustig is an Italian-trained winemaker who has worked around the globe, as well as in Israel's Midbar winery and his latest project, the Mitzpe winery, down in Mitzpe Ramon, Israel. These two exceptional winemakers shared with us their personal views and some of their latest wine releases, as well as tasting some incredible wines they are working on for the future. Their conversation was so interesting, especially with the questions and insights from both Sam and Kenny. If you're commuting in your car, please focus on the road and enjoy. If you're home, please choose a delicious kosher Israeli wine and sit back, listen in and enjoy.
Dr. Shivi DroriI'm Shivi Drori. I'm an owner and winemaker here, so a partner here in Volet Winery. I have a PhD from the Hebrew University in Plant Science and recent years I'm a professor at Ariel University, trying, I would say, to establish a wide research in wine and grape wine in Israel. It's new.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt was not something that you can actually speak about. Now we're establishing the Samsung Family Grape and Wine Research Center. It's a big initiative. We have five PhDs as PIs, as principal investigators, so five different labs working on various aspects of grape and wine. My specific I would say my main topic is the ancient grape vines of Israel. Starting 2011, we started a big expedition to collect and characterize the ancient grape vines. It's a very general term. It means that we were looking for anything that's indigenous to Israel.
Dr. Shivi DroriThere were very, very few when we started about 20 varieties that were mainly table grapes, kept by the Arab population for centuries. The Arabs actually made the transition from grapevine to olive. It was done many, many hundreds of years ago because of the prohibition of wine consumption by Islam. Before that, israel was actually a very big wine country, exporting, producing, drinking. Of course, commerce was very, very much based on wine. When the Muslims conquered the area, it was still not as prohibited as it was. Later, the 13th century, became very, very bad, I would say.
Dr. Shivi Drorifor the farmers it was actually banned and the vineyards were uprooted, the wine presses were destructed or transferred or changed into oil presses. Basically, the wine industry was destroyed.
S. Simon JacobIn the 1300s.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, from the 1300s, from the 13th century, it was the Mamluk era, and then the Turks came in. There were no Turks here, they were Ottoman. But when they came in, they just, they weren't really destroying anything, but they did not build anything. It continued deteriorating gradually, gradually, except for very few areas like Jerusalem. They built actually the wall of Jerusalem that we know now, it was not built by David. Okay, it's the Ottomans and certain additional places, but other than that they just neglected the whole country. Basically, there was no population.
Yiftach LustigThe hills here are filled with ancient wine wine presses Just over here you have a wine that would probably make you 50,000 locals here.
Dr. Shivi DroriI think less, but very small but equal.
S. Simon JacobIt's almost everywhere. You walk Every mountain top.
Dr. Shivi DroriEvery mountain top, at the one At least one. You can see them changing through areas by the technology. You can see by the carving in the stone what was the technology they were using. Baron Rochoux started the new wine industry in 1880, but unfortunately he didn't see fit to use the traditional varieties that grew here. It makes a lot of sense, actually, because Is it French and they wanted to make Bordeaux.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, not just that, he actually sent here specialists and when they saw what's going on in the vineyards here they said look, that's not professional. No wine will come out of this, no real wine. Even if there were a few good varieties that are suitable for wine production, they were grown in such a bad manner that a lot of spoilage bacteria a lot of.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's ethic acid going around in the air. They said, okay, that's not the way you do wine. Let's bring good wine grapes, let's make some good wines. That's a pity because it took us more than 100 years like 120 or 30 years to find the potential of the local wine varieties. So I'll go back to my work.
Dr. Shivi DroriThere were very, very few efforts before I started just to characterize a little bit the things that were still here grown by the Arabs. But when I started I said, okay, let's hypothesize that. Actually I had a few assumptions One, that they did good wines in ancient times. If they did good wines in ancient times, they definitely didn't do them from the remaining 20 varieties, which are basically table grapes, so we hypothesized that there were many more that were neglected because of the ban. And another assumption was that, because grapevine is very resilient and farmers are very smart, some of these varieties may have survived all of this period, and we were right.
Dr. Shivi DroriBut finding them took a lot of effort. It meant that we need to go by foot all over the country in deserted areas and find these neglected varieties. Then we need to actually see that they are indigenous varieties. We need to do genetic analysis and then we need to pick them up and put them in our collection to see what they are worth. Okay, if they're actually bearing grapes at all, and if so they're white, red, suitable for wine production. Can they accumulate sugar at all? Do they accumulate sufficient aroma compounds and acids, and so on? So that took a long time.
Dr. Shivi DroriGradually, we collected almost 100 varieties indigenous varieties. We collected more than 650 grapes from vines from the wilds, and after analyzing them, we have in our hands today almost 100 unique varieties, which is a big amount. Out of them, we selected 12 varieties that, in our point of view, can be very good for wine production, and in order to put them back into the Israeli wine industry, we need to clean them out of viruses. This means a lot of work. It means that we need to take tip of the chute size of 0.2 millimeters. You speak inches.
Yiftach LustigYeah.
S. Simon JacobNo, no, no.
Sam SofferHundreds of we know it millimeters, hundreds of an inch, okay.
Dr. Shivi DroriHundreds of an inch, okay. Pick it up under a microscope and sterile conditions, put it on a special plate in tissue culture, throw it back into a whole plant and then check it for virus. It takes a lot of time, and then again we succeeded already in four varieties to clean them. So they're back and people can just order them now and start planting them. These varieties have new names, like Yael, be'er. Hebrew names, oh wow, and not the Arab chain names like Jendali that was initially called Dali, which also doesn't sound very Israeli, but it was Israeli or Bituni, so this is Bituni.
Yiftach LustigThis is a red grape variety, an ancient red grape variety that she rediscovered and rediscovered and we're working on it. One challenge of it is because this was a table grape for a very long time. First of all, it's a really massive grape. It's a massive grape.
Kenney FriedmanAnd it was a table grape.
Yiftach LustigSo it's farmed to be table grape, which is not exactly what you're looking for in a wine grape, but still we're working on it for a couple of years and I call it the Israeli Pinot Noir because there's something. Pinoy-y or complexed.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's not what it is.
Yiftach LustigEven the color looks nice.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's very Pinoy-y Pinoy-y. Yeah, it smells like Pinot. The grapes are actually not so big if they're grown right. So, if they're grown by the Arabs as table grapes, they actually want them to be as big as possible, as beautiful as possible, but if you grow them on a vineyard for winemaking, you can actually really, really restrict the amount of water that you give and restrict the amount of berries or grapes that you grow, and they will be even better.
Dr. Shivi DroriBut this is sufficiently, I would say, rich for me to be a good wine, an interesting wine that actually changes the very regular portfolio of Chardonnay, cabernet, merlot and so on.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is different, as a burgundy succeeded in producing an amazing industry based on a grape that actually is very poor, like Pinoy-noir, and makes brownish orange wines that are basically not very beautiful for most people, for most people, but for me they are the most amazing wines on earth, so not everything that is shiny, bright, purple, deep red are the best wines, and that is what provides. Yeah.
S. Simon JacobSo this is. So the question I have for you with this is this is still You're still experimenting as to how to grow these the best way possible.
Dr. Shivi DroriUnfortunately, we cannot experiment yet on how to grow it. Just now I entered the first plants into the nursery to be able to produce plants, so only this year we can actually plant it. Until now, the last seven years we were buying them from Palestinian growers and grow them around Bethlehem. Why were they growing them?
Yiftach LustigBecause almost back to 30 years ago around.
Dr. Shivi DroriBethlehem there was a wine industry. They were Christians, actually, and they were old. Okay, they're not there anymore. Yeah, it's not very pleasant for a Christian to be in Palestinian authority today. So basically, they're growing as table grapes today. And we found a few good farmers that can sell us for now, until we have our own, and this comes actually.
S. Simon JacobSo you can't wait yeah, I can't wait until you have got the bitunee growing the way you want it to be grown Wow.
Yiftach LustigOne of the things that separates the vote lineery and is very important for us and we actually see it within the way we do the job is we control. We do have our own vineyards, we control the farm making there, and there's this big difference when the wine makers, the wine grower, between them working in contracts with the outside farmers, and we're interested and are interested not completely in line, and so for us, taking care of old plants, planting new ones, experimenting, all of this is done in-house, and it's done in-house because of Sheevee, because he's a winemaker, but he's also a scientist, he's also an explorer, and he's got me.
Yiftach LustigI'm crazy, and I'm just you give me a crazy idea and I go, oh, that's it. I think we can do that.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is great. Yeah, it is, and it takes time to evolve in the glass, so just let it sit.
S. Simon JacobYeah, no, I know I'm watching. I'm watching the aromas are coming off of it. It's just awesome.
Dr. Shivi DroriAnd it's nice. It's more reddish, okay, it's like more cherry, strawberry, strawberry, a little bit notes of earthiness, floral, very nice, really reminds us of Pinot Noir. But when we go, I would say, 10 years further, I'm sure we will be able to actually pin it down to the essence of its real, real characteristics.
Sam SofferReminds me a little bit of a pinotage.
Dr. Shivi DroriA pinotage is usually much darker, yeah, but it and much cooler in body. Coffee driven Coffee driven yeah, but it is, in a way I would say, under. Under the spectrum, a spectrum of granache, pino, nebbiolo, somewhere there. Nebbiolo that grows high in the mountains, like Valtelina areas like this Acidity grows on rock. So this is the region where this falls and it's very elegant. For me, it's the most suitable wine to drink in Israel in the summer as a red, because you cannot drink a heavy Petit.
S. Simon JacobVerdeau In.
Dr. Shivi DroriIsrael, you just fall down.
Kenney FriedmanIt has Italian character to it.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's only 12% alcohol, so again.
S. Simon JacobAnd.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt has the tendency.
Yiftach LustigWell, if I just can add one thing that's really important about it, all the great varieties that we know are Italian and French great varieties that we've brought here, which is a very different climate. This is a great variety that was born in this climate. So it's resistance to the ills of the Torah what characterizes Israel. It's a lot more resistant to it than let's say the French varieties, the diseases, the heat, the whole vegetative cycle of this is very different than anything I've seen in Europe.
Sam SofferRight. Actually, I have a question. When you do genetic testing to try and figure out the actual origin, what specifically are you doing Seriously?
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah.
Sam SofferSeriously.
Yiftach LustigYou have a very big question. You've just asked.
Dr. Shivi DroriThere are two ways to do genetic analysis, basically, okay. One is like they do it in forensics. It means that you take markers. Let's say every one of us has specific regions in his genome that are different from each other, even from a twin, if he's not an identical twin, okay. So that's enough, if you do like 22 of these in order to be able to statistically be certain that these are two different individuals. So this is one way of describing, and I would say, fingerprinting, a variety. So that's the easy way. It takes very short time. We can do it in lab, in my own lab. It's very easy and easy.
Kenney FriedmanYou have to have the equipment you have to use a PCR.
Sam SofferYeah, pcr yeah.
Dr. Shivi DroriPCR is good, no only PCR. And then you have to do a sequencing, but a sequencing in a very, very fast and I would say not very informative manner. You just have to know the length of these areas Seconds, that's it.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou don't have to actually know the sequence. And then there is the genomic analysis. Genomic analysis means that you actually analyze the whole genome. Okay, that means you use 50 million base pairs of genetic data. That's a lot. It's just one-sixth of a human being, but it's still a lot. And then you have to compare between the sequence of this individual and 100 more, or 3000 more in our case. Okay, and that takes a lot of time.
Sam SofferBut we did it, you did it crisper or some of those sorts of technologies, no need for that.
Dr. Shivi DroriSo I try and no, the wine industry is not Tronicryo is not receptive to any genetic modifications.
Sam Sofferunfortunately, Because that can speed up. You can look for specific sequences.
Yiftach LustigSo there's also. I remember the first time I went, the first time I was giving a lecture to these students, he asked me to give a lecture about Italy. So we're sitting down and he's telling me about this new variety that he showed me the leaf and I go. But that's not biolo. And he goes, what do you mean? It's like go to Amphilography and you see that the way that the leaf is grown is very, very similar to no biolo. So Well, it's not, it's not, it's not, it's not.
Yiftach LustigYeah, it's not the way the men.
Dr. Shivi DroriAmphilography is the description of morphology that actually gives you identity for a variety.
S. Simon JacobThat's the old way of doing things.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's still done today, but it's deteriorating.
Yiftach LustigIt's not scientific.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt gives you a hint. It's very subjective. They try to give it a lot of differences and angles.
Sam SofferIt's very different to make science out of it.
Yiftach LustigI have a laboratory also it was our best year. Different world what.
Sam SofferI have a laboratory also, but I'm a doctor, but I have a lab, ah, okay. Thanks the way we got around a lot of these things. We've looked at 50,000 genes. You can use now new technology to really isolate specifically what you're looking for in the much more time.
Dr. Shivi DroriExactly Targeted, sequencing, correct. So we're using every technique possible. Let's switch wine and then I'll tell you about our new endeavor. If anyone wants to switch his glass, just tell us and we'll switch. If not, we're continuing to Pinot Noir. I'll say a few words about Pinot Noir generally in this region. Pinot Noir is a tricky variety in Israel. Yeah, that's the least.
Yiftach LustigThe tricky variety, no matter what. No matter what, it's tricky.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's not very easy to grow it. The main reason is it is very sensitive to drought conditions. So if you give it to a much water, you get something very uninteresting. If you give it to less water, it starts to shrink. There's a very, very delicate balance there.
Dr. Shivi DroriActually, when it grows in Burgundy or other areas, it's usually it does get quite a big amount of rain and it has the ability to actually thrive even if it gets too much water. But it gets watery if it gets too much water. So big years in these regions would be years that didn't have too much rain. Here we never have rain. So the control of the whole thing is water supply, watering and a very accurate amount, and that's a big challenge, very big challenge. A few years back I did not produce Pinot Noir because it came so dark that people mistakenly thought it's a Syrah. The only reason was that we had a very strong drought and heat period, like a heat wave, for almost two weeks, and they just started shriveling. We picked them too late, that's it. So it is very it's unforgiving.
Yiftach LustigIt's an unforgiving great variety.
Dr. Shivi DroriSo, as you see, the color is very similar to Bituni and that's a standard Pinot Noir. It has a very nice color but it's very light and when you get, if you get in a tasting, great, great. When you get a Pinot Noir in a blind tasting, you always know it's a Pinot Noir, because Granash has a very, very different aroma, so it's quite easy to discriminate between them.
Kenney FriedmanYour ultimate, you're driving the Bituni, especially when you get to do yourself the Pinot Noir style.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, we call it the Israeli Pinot.
Yiftach LustigI remember the Bituni 18, that was on a blind tasting with Burgundy.
Dr. Shivi DroriBy the way, getting the Bituni to where it is, it's not very easy.
S. Simon JacobThe fermentation yeah, I've never tasted it like this.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, the fermentation done here is ridiculous. We ferment them whole berries and we actually need to put someone into the tank to break the grapes with the legs and wearing plastic bags Really, yeah, it's very, very different from a regular winemaking.
Sam SofferIt's an ancient grape and ancient technology.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt does not go through regular steamer pressures wineries. It just can't Okay.
Kenney Friedmanso why you can have so.
Sam SofferThe berries are too big to go through the holes of the. You couldn't put them on a whole cluster, just clasium we do it almost like that, but then we ferment it partially.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's called a carbonic fermentation. Carbonic fermentation.
Sam SofferCarbonic fermentation.
Dr. Shivi DroriCarbonic fermentation we leave it. I don't know all these flies here.
S. Simon JacobThis is the.
Dr. Shivi DroriBituni, and then we can get much more floral aromas out of it and it goes to the lighter but rich area and it doesn't fall into extracted to dull place For the Pinot, which is a Shibizanai passion project.
Yiftach Lustigwe love Pinot. If it wasn't our vineyard, if it wasn't completely in, our control we would not make.
S. Simon JacobPinot, you and Yacovoria that's his dream is making Pinot.
Yiftach LustigIn order to we either do it well or we don't do it at all. So the only reason that we're making Pinot is because we planted it and we invested in it we would not buy grapes from anyone.
Israeli Pinot and Warm Climate Wines
Sam SofferNot from the Pinot it shows. This is my favorite Israeli Pinot by this every year. It's a beautiful, beautiful Pinot. I have been sitting in a cellar. They age beautiful. Oh yeah, these are the best. There's no other Pinot in Israel, yeah.
Yiftach LustigThere you go.
Sam SofferThey've become a little expensive in America.
Dr. Shivi DroriOh yeah, tell me about it. I was not there for four years, they're probably retailing now for $60 a bottle.
Sam Soffer$60. $50. $58. Yeah, I'm serious.
S. Simon JacobWow, where's your cut?
Dr. Shivi DroriNo, no we did not get that. I used to buy them for $40. That's the price I know, but not anymore. I'll tell you why.
Sam SofferBecause, we didn't do them every year. So he can actually Pull back because a lot of people are looking for that. His own method of extraction?
Yiftach LustigYeah, I can tell you the harvest of the Pinot Pinot is just not forgiving in the vineyard in any way, and not also the window of the harvest, the window of picking. It is very, very, very, very small, so we have to be with our finger on the pulse. We had Pinot.
Sam SofferNo, but it will be this Pinot, the Gavale Pinot.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt gives you a pleasant drink without being shallow. It's rich, very rich, but not too heavy. The elegance here. That's the point. You can actually drink a bottle of that and feel that you had a very pleasant worth all over the bottle. So that's the point.
Sam SofferWe've done that many times. La Caim, La Caim.
S. Simon JacobLa Caim Taube. La Taube, that's really cool, Excellent. It's interesting to compare them so directly because it actually looked more Pinot-like the Bituni, until you have the.
Sam SofferPinot. This is a very good Pinot.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, I know I know it depends on the year. It's a very good Pinot.
Sam SofferI'm curious to see, when you grow the grapes here, the Bituni, whether you can get this level of concentration.
Yiftach LustigI think so.
Sam SofferThe difference is the Bituni doesn't quite have the concentration that this has, I agree.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis has the tannins, the very supple tannins, that are very very enjoyable. The Bituni does not have it yet, and it will once we grow it. This is exactly what we're looking for.
Sam SofferWhen you market the new Bituni, you have to make it very clear to people that it was the first vintage made here.
Dr. Shivi DroriNot only that but the grapes that are cleaned from viruses. They will be much better colored and much better flavored Awesome.
S. Simon JacobThank you. Okay, so that's it. What's next? Thank you very much I'm joking.
Dr. Shivi DroriAfter the Pinot, you know something.
S. Simon JacobIf that was it and it was finished, it would be worth coming.
Sam SofferIt's good to get blitzed by 11 o'clock in the morning.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's interesting what we will answer. What is?
Yiftach Lustigit If you take a cold climate variety and you put it in a warm climate, it reacts to it. This is a warm climate variety, so it can remain fresh. That's what I think is its beauty. I get that a lot of the time. How's the heat?
Kenney Friedmanhere for you Perfect, perfect, yep, what you're talking about. I'm going to re-ask the question now.
Yiftach LustigIt's actually the fact that it is a warm climate variety that allows it to be not over the top. It's not a transplant. It's a local, it's a valedict, valedict, great variety.
Dr. Shivi DroriFor me, when we speak about Mediterranean varieties, we're mistakenly speaking about South France varieties, which are not really Rome varieties.
Yiftach LustigYeah, I would say Southern Rome, the Nice, Provence, the.
Kenney FriedmanNew Regions Syrah.
Dr. Shivi DroriThese are really European varieties. They are not hot climate varieties. I mean it comes to be warm there once in a while, but not like here. From March we're starting to be warm, so it's very different. When we look at the varieties that are indigenous to Israel, most of them, first of all, are white, which is very interesting. Secondly, the reds are mostly light red, light red, not very dark. Only two or three varieties in the whole collection that have very dark, rich tannic and pigmented characteristics. That's because the warm climate does not favor too much tannin and too much anthocyanins.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's very hard for a grave man to do that in this hot climate as a regular thing In Israel. In order to grow these varieties, we do a lot of tricks, the transplants, but the varieties that grow here, what was, I would say, selected into them was drought, stress, salt stress, I would say resistance to very limey soils. That's the point there not making very dark graves. People that grew them first of all wanted them to be able to stand and thrive in very harsh conditions. That was the main breeding purpose. Okay.
Kenney FriedmanShmonaisli, shmonaisli, we sleep.
Dr. Shivi DroriShmonaisli, Shmonaisli. Okay, we're going to taste Merlot. So basically, I think that wines in the hot region basically will be lighter on the color. Basically we'll have less tannins than what you expect to have in colder areas okay, cooler areas, but they will be very rich. If they're good, they're going to be very rich and if they're good, they will keep the acid, even though that's not the basic characteristic you find in most graves in hot climates.
Dr. Shivi DroriFreshness, Freshness if they're good, you'll find them fresh, you'll find them rich. That's the characteristics we're looking for in, not extraction, not darkness. Okay, that's basically.
Kenney FriedmanHere's another question for you. Okay, I'll give you two more, because you're a businessman also. You're not just a winemaker, you're not just a scientist.
Yiftach LustigNo, no, no, no, no, he's not a good businessman?
Kenney FriedmanMaybe he's not, and that's my question. He's not a farmer it's limiting him. Well, because you're making grapes that are not. You're making varieties that are not necessarily People. Don't go into a wine store and ask for bituny. People ask for cab, but you get away from that. How do you balance what you want and what we'll sell? There's a lot more production of the cab, the whole bituny program is less than 3,000 bottles, right In 100,000 bottles. But obviously the passion is pinot bituny, indigenous. No.
Dr. Shivi DroriThat's fine. That's my passion. Passion is what I'm making, like what you do for a living.
Kenney FriedmanA lot of things.
Dr. Shivi DroriHuh yeah, a lot of things.
Kenney FriedmanI'm. I'm a chiropractor, physical therapist, great. And I'm also a wine writer.
Dr. Shivi DroriOkay, that's great how much of your time you Put into one writing Right small amount. Okay, that and what? What do you?
Kenney Friedmanbut that's why, that's what my passion is great, that's the hope, that's the answer. Right, I Understand it, I understand it first hand, so yeah, we do a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Dr. Shivi DroriWe do very good Cabernet Sauvignon. We do a lot of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, but I'm more interested about the Jindali fermenting in my Terracotta fora right then in the Chardonnay, fermenting in a stainless steel right.
Kenney FriedmanThis is 2018 Merlot.
Yiftach LustigMelozo so yeah, I'll tell you a story about how he met when I was in Jerusalem. Was a head somebody. I came here when we just became friends and we did a barrel tasting and I've tasted them on the XM.
Kenney FriedmanMerlot. Is a problem in Israel because a lot of the wine acres.
Yiftach LustigWell, wine growers treat it like a Cabernet, and it's not it's a much more unforgiving great, for I even cast and Want to think I'm really happy about it. One thing I'm really passionate about even though it's not our best seller and it's a very limited release is I'm really proud of our own.
Sam SofferI think that's we modest and say tough five, I'm not just saying it because I'm here in this one or this is the finest Merlot made in Israel and it's interesting because you make it on the look, the look, the entry level, entry level wine I've been buying a few years and I've posted about it. I've written about it that this is from what, for me at least, the best Merlot made in Israel.
Yiftach LustigThe amount of effort put in.
Sam SofferYou know this, merlot, for the price point.
Yiftach LustigYou don't make it great what you want to do is Merlot, is you would not believe what goes on the scene, because we're very very proud of this Merlot.
Sam SofferYeah, you should be it's. It's an excellent effect because you don't have a go from it. This is the entry level where I always tell people, because it sells in New York, you can buy this bottle for now it's a little more $28. Used to be $20 $22 right but it's still. It's still for that, for the value of that kind of wine.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou know, sideways movie? Yes, of course, that's it, no more.
Kenney FriedmanThat really it hurt them, or?
Sam Sofferlow market.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou know it's the right area, I love.
Kenney FriedmanMerlot.
Sam SofferI love. Some of the best wides of the world are projects I love.
Kenney FriedmanI think a lot of the people that think they like have would prefer Merlot Well they don't even know they're drinking Merlot.
Sam SofferThey're drinking. They're drinking these wines to the right bag.
Yiftach LustigThe problem with it is normally a. Mid-range cab. Let's say and then most of it is somewhere in the Average and you have some cab really good, some cab horrible the thing about Merlot is it is really binary. It's either brilliant, right is one either wonderful, amazing and tasty, or it's disgusting.
Kenney FriedmanThere's a lot of a lot of bad.
S. Simon JacobAnd the ship is about 90% to the disgusting and 10% wrong.
Dr. Shivi DroriAnd now we will pour the new one, so we can Compare okay.
Kenney FriedmanI found the easy. I found 18. I said the 18 vintage in Israel was a very good vintage.
Dr. Shivi DroriNo found like I would say here that we had a few varieties that were very good. Yeah and a few that were Very late to be picked.
Kenney FriedmanHere's what I would say. I would say that I found that, maybe because it was a cool year, a lot of not such great producers made better wine. You make great wine every year, producers that don't had better years in 18.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, it's more forgiving.
Sam SofferI think it was more forgiving. Your 18 Pino. Yeah, like your 18 Pino, not much. Okay, interesting 18 for Israel. It was a good year, a lot of good ones in Israel but your Pino, that year it was good.
Dr. Shivi DroriBut it wasn't. It didn't have the brilliant 17 was a better year because of. Definitely one of the years that it was very. It went to the point of leather and the earthiness without having the Beautiful perfume.
Yiftach LustigFirst time I came here. I try to validate things a little and to this day and I will not forgive him for that Feel, feel, that feel the acid here, which is natural acid.
Dr. Shivi DroriMm-hmm, this is a lot of fruit. This is a very long line, okay. The aroma and and fruitiness in the mouth is Kilometer and that's, that's very good. Merlot, okay.
Yiftach LustigFirst, on I can do the wandering. I did a barrel tasting with him 2010, 20, maybe 2009, and we tried a couple barrels he had three barrels of very, very specific Merlot. He knows it's because we fight about it. So this day I wanted one barrel as a one barrel buckling.
Dr. Shivi DroriAnd I put it into my side and he put it put it into a blend Touch my line Meloids.
Dr. Shivi DroriMerlot in this region. If it's grown properly, you can pick it up with pH of 3.25, which is ridiculously low. It means that has very good acidic build and If it's grown lower the altitude, the alcohol that should be about 13, 13.5, and it's. We never pick it late, it's always. We always pick it quite early To get, to keep the acidity, to keep, to keep the elegance. If you, if you keep it more, you will get much more darker and it will become an imitation of Cabernet souvenir in.
Yiftach LustigIn general it's, there's all. There's a game between north Israel and and shaman Jerusalem Hills in terms of the cabin Merlot. Over there the cab is very expressive and the Merlot is very subdued and over here it's a little bit of an inversion of that, and I'm talking in road strokes. Really depends on the grower and specific site.
Dr. Shivi DroriActually, if there was a market for Melo, we would grow here the majority of Merlot.
Yiftach LustigYeah, the Merlot we here is much better than I want to know, right?
Kenney FriedmanThe vineyard dance is what blend. The vineyard dance Depends on the year, but it's basically a blend of a lot of the fever, though.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, some cabinet union usually, and it could be the difference between, like, 40% Petit Verdeaux, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, or 50% Petit Verdeaux, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Could be Merlot and the Cabernet Funk. Sometimes they even put a touch of Pinot Noir in. So it's, it's a blend and it really depends on the year. Is the?
Kenney Friedmanvineyard here. He's our, he's with us.
Sam SofferShould be. The vineyard dance is Mavuscio.
Dr. Shivi DroriNot all of it not all right reduce a specific amount.
Sam SofferThe Merlot is still not Mavuscio. Right Melo is not Mavuscio.
Dr. Shivi DroriWe make batches for the American Market of Mavuto.
Kenney FriedmanI don't really like it. I know Because in general don't like to cook your wife In America, now that the Cab Sauv the regular entry level.
Sam SofferThe entry level Cabernet they're bringing now is only only the Mavuscio one. I can't find the non-Mavuscio Regular Cab Sauv and I don't. It's not quite the same wine.
Dr. Shivi DroriEven though we do a very Good bechewel.
Sam SofferYeah, yeah I know, but it's not the same.
Dr. Shivi DroriThe reason I don't do be sure for all of it is because it changes the one right, but the Merlot in America, the ones not. Mavuscio. Okay, the ones I said.
S. Simon JacobThis is your glass.
Sam SofferLet's do it.
Dr. Shivi DroriOkay, so this is winner. Dance 2022 Marcellan. Marcellan's growing here no we had a small amount of Marcellan coming from somewhere else and we thought it could spice the spice up 7% means about Two and a half barrels into the whole blend.
Yiftach LustigYeah, more.
Kenney FriedmanThis is green pepper the. What's talk about the Tver dough in?
Yiftach LustigIsrael. Oh, okay, so.
Dr. Shivi DroriIf I had to choose a variety that's the Israeli variety else of my indigenous race, it would be to give her dough. The reason is that it's so versatile, it can actually do very good and do good it means that it gets very good characteristics of the Tver dough in almost every terror in Israel, from the negative to the to the north, and that's unique. It's very, very unique.
Yiftach LustigIt has a very high tolerance for heat. Yeah, a very high.
Colorant and Experimentation in Winemaking
Dr. Shivi DroriAnd the reason is the reason is that it's a. It's a very late ripener, which makes it very green and very Tart in Bordeaux. This is why they put it in a very, very small amount into the lens. It's, it's a. It's a colorant more than anything else there, because it has a very high color here in Israel, because it it ripens late. It's great because that's the when the heat goes down, so actually it's ripening area Period is in a more milder Temperatures.
Dr. Shivi DroriSo it it really gains amazing complexity, color and everything, and we use this the petit-verdeux in our winery as the main working horse. Okay, it's like 40% of the wine here are petit-verdeux based in the Reds. If I look at it, we planted more petit-verdeux than any other variety in the winery in the last five years. It's it's a acidic.
Yiftach LustigCarrier. Hey, it brings acidity to the blend a lot of the time of freshness, so that's a backbone Very good damage. Yeah, I'm glad Ken will ask that.
Sam SofferI never understood why in Bordeaux they can use it in such tiny quantities essentially colors to the white but in israel and there are several people that make a pretty good petit-verdeux.
Yiftach LustigThey can't make it right, but it's interesting.
Sam SofferI'm glad you asked that, because I never understood that. I thought about that, yeah.
Dr. Shivi DroriWe pick it up here. After Sukkot, we're doing it.
Yiftach LustigOkay, it's interesting very late every year. This is the last.
Kenney FriedmanI think it's the last, where it's always the last deal, right.
Sam SofferYou'll never find a France.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, one month after the Covernation meal. It's a lot of time.
Yiftach LustigA lot of flavor, a lot of color, a lot of fruit, but it doesn't let go of the acidity, which is the the main issue. I use it in terms of balancing everything out and the blend Keeps it, and if you pick it a bit earlier, you don't get too green, which is great.
Sam SofferWhat year is this? This is 2020. 2022.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is. It was followed a few, uh, I mean a month ago.
Kenney FriedmanOkay so it.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's a baby beautiful.
Sam SofferIt's very tasty, very, very, very elegant so we're gonna go to the Marsala.
Kenney FriedmanWe had a. We had a go in it one year, um, just in 2022.
Yiftach LustigI think it was an experiment. We don't like experimenting and uh, but it's not something that we're putting into the video.
Kenney FriedmanIt was a good experiment. What are you talking about? The?
Sam SofferMarsala. They made a pure Marsala.
Yiftach LustigIt was an experiment, we we wanted to check it out. We wanted to taste it. It was a great experiment, but I don't think it's gonna work.
Kenney FriedmanWhat failed about it? What about it failed?
Dr. Shivi DroriIt doesn't hold the acid.
Yiftach LustigYeah, um, it didn't get. It gave us a lot of spicy for great for for the blends, just to get everything.
S. Simon JacobBut it wasn't interesting enough to to marry.
Kenney FriedmanWhy do you use it in a percentage in the vineyard dance like what is it bringing to this? It gave some spice. When we talk about spice, it could be like tobacco it could be a bit of Green pepper.
Dr. Shivi DroriNot only yeah, maybe some, but more, more like black pepper.
Sam SofferIt would be like.
Kenney FriedmanCinnamon sometimes right, small amount of cinnamon.
Dr. Shivi DroriSo that's On us on a low level, because if we put too much of it we would lose the balance.
Sam SofferYou're absolutely tasting in the wine, though.
Kenney FriedmanThere's, you're absolutely Green. Pepper. I had that.
S. Simon JacobIs it another direction?
Dr. Shivi Droribecause of okay 2021 cab reserve G ludzie neただ.
Yiftach LustigWhen you go to Gofna, you usually find out, in terms of percentage, a lot more percentage of our own vineyards. Okay, so one vineyard is right next to Shivi's house. It's called Cab One. We call it Cab One. It's non-irrigated, very old variety. Very old 15, 20 years.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, it's a 22 years old vineyard. It was not irrigated at all the last 12 years, so that's very, very different from others you get a lot of it's a very small production Like it produces nothing but the concentration of it.
Yiftach LustigIt's the best cab I've ever tried in Israel by far like miles.
Dr. Shivi DroriNow let it have some time to develop in the glass. Give it some air.
Kenney FriedmanThis is 100% cab.
Dr. Shivi DroriNot exactly. We never do 100%, it's 6.
Yiftach LustigMerlot 6.
Kenney FriedmanMerlot.
Dr. Shivi DroriOkay, we always balance, almost ever. I almost never take a single vineyard and bottle it. I always find something unbalanced and try to balance it with something else. It's part of the job.
Kenney FriedmanOn the bottle. This would never say 6% Merlot, it just says cab. Yeah right.
Dr. Shivi DroriNo, you see it behind.
Sam SofferEven by the rules, though it does say 6% Merlot. If it's less than 15% of something else you can call it Correct, you don't have to say it, right, right.
Yiftach LustigWe want just a. 6% means one barrel In the whole blend. It's just one barrel that I had.
Kenney FriedmanOne barrel right the ABV, the alcohol. I've always been under the impression that there's tricks to play, I guess for tax reasons. Whatever, it's always honest. The.
Dr. Shivi DroriABV. But, do you know what I'm talking about? Sanitory to give For tariffs.
Kenney FriedmanI'm saying the.
Dr. Shivi DroriIf it's very high, people do foilish ticks. Yeah, if it's on the lower side, there's no reason to be honest. But, if you're on a 15.5, in the States it becomes a liquor Right, right right. This is why people take it a bit lower. We never get there, so we don't have the problem. We always pick the grapes around 13.5 alcohol. Sometimes it goes up to 14. That's it.
Kenney FriedmanIt's funny because a lot of the Italian legalities are all to get the alcohol up and a lot of that has flip-flop now.
Yiftach LustigCold climate has a challenge of getting ripeness. So, in cold climate regions Bordeaux, borghenti, it's like.
Kenney FriedmanBut it's not so much anymore, right.
Dr. Shivi DroriHe was a winemaker in.
Kenney FriedmanIn Italy. I told you.
Yiftach LustigGetting to the high alcohol percentage means you've done a good job and you've got the grapes ripen. Here it's the other way around.
Kenney FriedmanYeah, the other way around, right.
Yiftach LustigIf I can get a full buggy or fully matured wine at 13%, then I've made it. The less amount of alcohol means the more acidity or the less foilish tick. I didn't have to play with the wine as much.
Kenney FriedmanIs there a difference nowadays in Israel in terms of the heat and how it's affecting grapes versus 40, 50 years ago? Is it hotter now as it is?
Sam Soffereverywhere, yeah.
Kenney FriedmanSo you have the other problem of trying to control the grapes as opposed to what's happening here.
Dr. Shivi DroriIsrael is the forefront lab of climate change in the world.
Kenney FriedmanThe one in the Negev is even more so. Negev is the forefront of what's going to have to happen in Europe? I guess right.
Dr. Shivi DroriNegev is basically the site of climate change for Israel. For Israel. In Israel is the forefront lab for the whole world. We are publishing a lot of papers about the effects of the climate.
Dr. Shivi DroriAnd there are basically how it changes because of heat accumulation over the years. The basic thing that we see is not the regular temperatures in the regular days they are quite similar to other years but the amount of heat waves and the intensity of the heat waves. That's the point. And if in previous years, like 20 years ago, we had maybe one or two weeks that we had three or four days of heat wave, last year we had three weeks of a heat wave with unwavering 2023 was the hardest harvest I've ever seen.
Yiftach Lustig2023 was the hardest harvest by far. It was very difficult to in a harvest, you have to make plans for next week or the week after that. We had very little leeway because it was very difficult to make a decision today in terms of two days from now, because you didn't know where the vineyard would.
Dr. Shivi DroriThe vineyard could either be stuck because of the overheating. It could just close itself and wait, or it could run race to a trepness and that was very tricky. How long is this? In oak it's usually between 16 and 18 months. What?
Sam Sofferkind of oak. It's French or a French.
Kenney FriedmanThey're generally used barrels.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou see, we have a blend of about 30% new and these reserve gofnei. We usually have 50% new and 50% older barrels.
Sam SofferDo you move the bottle? Do you move it from new oak to?
Dr. Shivi DroriWe use a few barrels for the blend.
Sam SofferSome of them were all the time in the new oak, so it doesn't get overrode.
Dr. Shivi DroriIf you get too many new barrels, you will get, like we call it, oak juice.
Yiftach LustigThat's not very pleasant.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou have to be very, very careful about that.
S. Simon JacobThere's some more in order to try to make that I think it's more common to find oak juices.
Yiftach LustigI can tell you for myself. I was in 2016,. I had a harvest in the US and when I landed I went to Napavali for three days. First appointment, friend of a friend, which is Camus. I went there. They make beautiful wine.
S. Simon JacobI was there for about three hours and said okay, I understand Napavali.
Yiftach LustigI'm going to Sonoma now because the amount it felt like the same wine in different houses.
Kenney FriedmanAt Camus.
Yiftach LustigThe. Napakata, napakata and Napakashar mate, it didn't feel like there was any leeway In Sonoma. When you're talking about the Russian river, Natalaxander Valley, which is a lot more commercial wineries, and the Russian river, you do have those avant-garde wine makers that take chances that the I can't even blame that the cost of land in Napakata is so high that they can't take chances on a different style.
Yiftach LustigThey have to make that same buttery chardonnay and same woody cab, which is they make a great cabin, they make a great chardonnay, just not my style, not something I'm interested in. And you move from one region to another.
Dr. Shivi DroriGuys, you don't want anything on the side If you're looking for color and extraction look at it against the white gloss or something.
Kenney FriedmanThe saloon doors. What are we drinking? Pitch black.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's Iverdó Very, very super dark so producing color is easy if you have a pétir adó. If you have a good pétir adó, the point is not just getting it to extract, but rather have a very specific aroma and the characteristics of the pétir adó, and we call it.
Sam SofferWe call it enquiness. Enquiness.
Dr. Shivi DroriVery dark fruits, it's absolutely good.
S. Simon JacobIt's a bit of a palette. It's balanced, it's just a trend.
Yiftach LustigSo, you understand. We make this wine for you, not for the market. The market does not appreciate a pétir adó varietó.
S. Simon JacobIt doesn't.
Yiftach LustigWould we make this? We make it for you, for a consumer like yours.
Sam SofferYeah, I love these ones. I love your pétir, pétir by the way it's so difficult to sell.
Kenney FriedmanThey sell this in America.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, but again, it's not too heavy, no, but I, just I am proud of it being pétir adó.
Kenney FriedmanMe too. I know I get that Just to sell it, you think?
S. Simon JacobPeople don't know what they want. They taste this and they like this.
Kenney FriedmanYou're a wine writer, you're a wine writer about pétir adó caram from. Israel, I do Once people will be educated they might even go and look for it.
Yiftach LustigThe reason me and Shibi and I work so well together. First off, we both pull to different ends of the spectrum, and I believe that the end result usually is better than anything that we achieve by ourselves. But we both think of ourselves as educators, and the wine that is produced here does have the intention of not just being tasty but also to educate the drinkers. I believe in it too, and that's part of the reason why we do Merlot, why we do pétir adó.
Yiftach LustigThis is very intense. Some people say it's even too intense for them.
Aging and Characteristics of Wines
Dr. Shivi DroriBut, there are a lot of people that this is exactly what they're looking for.
Kenney FriedmanWhat's the in terms of a window of one to drink?
Yiftach Lustigsomething.
Dr. Shivi DroriWhat do you say?
Kenney Friedmanabout that. Really, when do you say this peaks?
Dr. Shivi DroriI would say 12 years from now, it softens, beautifully, it softens.
Kenney FriedmanI have some old ones.
Sam SofferDid you make this in 2013?
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, I think it was the first year.
Sam SofferI think I have a 20th. I still have it Because when I drink it every time, I it was not from our venue then. It wasn't. It's still very good.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt was very good.
Sam SofferEvery time I open one of your pétit fédos, I write a note. On every bar I open, I write don't open another one for another few years. You know what I'm saying. It's still not quite the pétit fédos can age.
Dr. Shivi DroriI think this is why I'm saying it's the Israeli variety, because this one can actually age.
Sam SofferWell, very well. Will this develop tertiary notes? Yeah, not now. Not now, but 12 years from now.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt has so much time and so much body that it will keep its current characteristics for very long.
S. Simon JacobIt starts becoming aged, much, much later than the merlot we taste.
Sam SofferMerlot cannot age very well. No, I find the merlots that I buy. I usually drink them within a few years.
Dr. Shivi DroriMerlot, I would say six years is the maximum.
Kenney FriedmanBut that's why I think Americans specifically should buy more merlot also, because it's there now, it's ready, right, and it's soft and it's. You know, cab is not really great for the American palate. You don't realize they're merlots you buy.
Sam SofferIt's like the DRC's right it's 100% merlot.
S. Simon JacobYou like a wine like the.
Sam SofferDRC yeah, it's 100% merlot, I love merlot.
Kenney FriedmanI know it's a different kind of merlot.
Sam SofferThis merlot is a wine for the first couple of years. That's what I learned with this Guys we have two more wines.
Dr. Shivi DroriOne is Masada.
S. Simon JacobWhich is a blend.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt's a blend. It was our highest blend until recently. Now you make the razz. Now we make the razz.
Sam SofferThe razz right. The razz is not available in America.
Dr. Shivi DroriThe razz is not available anywhere, but here Can we taste the razz?
S. Simon JacobNo, I don't want to taste it, I want to buy it by myself.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, that's the first.
Yiftach LustigThere's very few. There's very few, very few.
S. Simon JacobThat's why one of the reasons I came was to taste it.
Yiftach LustigAnd there's also another thing the razz are two barrels from the whole winery.
Dr. Shivi DroriThey're aged for 24 months at least and then, three more years in the barrel here in the winery. So 2017 is what we sell now. 2018 is starting to sell soon.
Yiftach LustigAnd if you want, there's another bottle that's only sold here. It's something of a passion project. It's a Gofna, so in your blood.
Kenney FriedmanYeah, not really Gofna, so in your blood.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou want to open the razz or you want to open Masada.
Sam SofferNo, we'll have the Masada, masada. I want to try the razz. I love the Masada but I store. I have a million of them. I buy the Masada. I tell everybody, all the wines in Israel. This is the best aging wine in Israel.
Kenney FriedmanThe Masada. The Masada is the best aging wine. Every time I've opened one.
Sam SofferI've never opened one that I thought wasn't young. So I'm still, I'm still talking about going back to 2005.
Dr. Shivi DroriNo, no, I don't have that. I don't have that.
Sam SofferI have maybe 2010. I've never had one that I didn't think was young. I open one every circus.
Yiftach LustigWe opened our Herodion, which is kind of a vault, a cavernation of New. York, 2009,. About two weeks ago. Yeah, we opened it Then it was perfect. I have some.
S. Simon JacobHerodion 2009's and I'm telling you, perfect. Everybody said I love the gophins better and like I. Just for some reason they got lost in my cellar and I pulled them out and they're amazing.
Dr. Shivi DroriAmazing. We opened one here and I posted. I don't post a lot on Facebook, but I was so excited that I actually posted it.
Yiftach LustigI saw that. I saw that. I told him look, there's a pop open and wide. You gotta give it a go. It's perfect yeah.
S. Simon JacobIt was it's I have. I have some models. Yeah, I got a tail.
Sam SofferI got a tail.
S. Simon JacobMy wife has an underpowered headlight and she loves that, which one Herodion yeah. Herodion, herodion.
Yiftach LustigFor, for, for for me is a technically, technically, the Gvaot series, technically, is more important. Yeah, then the Gvaot. No, it's not the best, it's more important.
Dr. Shivi DroriMore important Because most clients will find Gvaot and not Masala Right. We have to have the Gvaot in a very high level because this is the entry level of the wiring. Once you have it and you are very much impressed, you will go up to the Gvaot plant.
Sam SofferBut what, what, what I vote, what, no, what I vote, give it, give it like, uh, what I've always liked about the Gvaot. But I rate it a little bit because this is the youngest one.
S. Simon JacobWe're still selling 2020.
Dr. Shivi DroriSo I asked him for 2021 because I want to taste 2021.
Kenney FriedmanSee, if it's ready.
S. Simon JacobThis is the Masala yeah.
Sam SofferIt's nice that I always.
Kenney FriedmanThis has not been released. The 2021 Masala.
Sam SofferWell, when people ask me about the Gvaot ones, though, I always because I don't have to know what they're drinking Any wine, the entry level ones, are delicious. Do you know what I'm saying? It's not. You don't make any bad wine. Yeah, there's no bad wine, and that's one of the nice things of the line.
Yiftach LustigAnd the thing is because I could choose the vineyards in terms of what goes in making a Gvaot for me today, I'm going to go up and I'm going to be. I'm going to be stuck working on the 2022 Gvaot right now.
Sam SofferMm, hmm.
Yiftach LustigAnd in about an hour, and, and, and. I don't want to.
S. Simon JacobIt's not easy and it's always difficult.
Yiftach LustigBut, but, but, it's much easier.
Dr. Shivi DroriGive it a time. Give it a time, it is much easier. It's a big nose. At least five minutes, because I already have the right I've got to.
Sam SofferI don't know that, but but what year is this one? 2021. 2021. Not released yet. It really needs five years.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah.
Sam SofferWait, wait, wait.
Dr. Shivi DroriWait, wait.
Sam SofferI know, but it's it needs. I've done this before on these wines and it needs. It needs a. If you're going to open it, it needs a decant.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is that. This is a potential taste Watch. This is what we're doing now. A lot of air, a lot of air, a lot of air.
Kenney FriedmanSo why maker's hands? Do it, do it, do it. Why maker's hands?
Yiftach LustigAnd and and immediately you're going to see how it opened up.
Kenney FriedmanYeah, yeah.
Yiftach LustigBlend it, blend it, make a blender out of it.
Kenney FriedmanYou know, what I've seen people doing lately. They take the the bottle.
Dr. Shivi DroriCalled like a Shuzher thing, Closer, Put it, put it would you?
Kenney Friedmanwould you do that?
Dr. Shivi DroriThere is a. Is there a thing to it? There is a.
Kenney FriedmanVenturi thing, this works for these wines. Right, but do you know what I'm talking about? The thing, the immersion blender.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah.
Kenney FriedmanWould you do that? No?
Dr. Shivi DroriJust there, just there.
Kenney FriedmanI know this Shuzher. Okay, here it comes here it comes. Here it comes, but I've seen that they they use it for the cappuccino thing.
Dr. Shivi DroriOkay, let it, let it be, and then, like it makes sense to me, because that like really blows it up.
Kenney FriedmanYeah, really blows it up.
Dr. Shivi DroriMasada is blended for very long gaging. That's the whole point. But on the other hand, we still want it to be available upon release so you can actually drink it and have a lot of pleasure. But you will definitely notice that it's best if you keep them for a few more years. Oh yeah, at least five, six years more, and that's the whole point. So there are a lot of people that have no patience, and that's fine, right, and I always tell them if you buy Masada buy Sixpack.
Dr. Shivi DroriAt least have one now, and then, every year from now, put your notes and try to see how it evolves. That's the whole point. If not don't waste your money, just buy both. Yeah, yeah it's fun.
Sam SofferI used to do that with Masada. I stopped. I wait now about six or seven years before you start Easy yeah, then I wait. I'm telling you 10 years. I'm not sure how long they can go because I don't have old enough bottles to know how long it'll go. What's your original bottle?
Yiftach Lustig10 of these, five of these, is it still going? We're not sure how long it can go. We have, we don't know.
Sam SofferBut is it an 05? Still drinking nicely? Yeah, because people talk in Israel, people that we have chats, all these little mavens. No, no, I'm saying we have this, no, but people talk about how long one can go.
Kenney FriedmanThey also don't know what they're talking about.
Sam SofferAnd I don't think we know the specifics. That's what.
Kenney FriedmanI would say I always tell, I never know, I don't think we know about this wine, it's just not old enough wine, because we don't have old enough wines.
Dr. Shivi DroriThat's right, I just don't know.
Yiftach LustigI know our cruise right, our plots and we work on, like, when we think about wine in she view, we're thinking about it in terms of plots and I know that our Kabbas wine, easily if I will ever bottle 100% Kabbas wine could easily go 20, 25 years, easy, the end, the upper end of that ageing, I don't know, but 20 years I will sign.
Kenney FriedmanOf which ones the sign.
Yiftach LustigIsada, our plots, a plot called Kabbas wine. Have it stay in your mouth.
Tasting and Discussing Wine Varieties
Kenney FriedmanReally Feel the richness. The Cabernet next to his house. Right, okay, right.
Yiftach LustigBut it's a very, very particular plot. Wow and it has an ageing capability of 25 years Easy. Easy.
S. Simon JacobBut you will never have it. It's statement.
Dr. Shivi DroriBut you will never have it 100%. This is rich. Okay, this is what we're looking for. It's concentrated in ways that you Length Length and complexity.
Sam SofferThat's what has some serious tannins right now too. Yeah, but they're not sticky, no, no, no, okay, they're like mouth-watering. No, it's with the wine's balance. Still tannins, yes.
Yiftach LustigReal, oh real. What's that big Real?
Kenney FriedmanWe're getting food White. It's very white.
Dr. Shivi DroriSo this is what we're looking for in our higher blend. Mm-hmm. Okay, again, we have razz, sea razz. Okay, it's even a notch higher, but this is so what we're aiming when we're producing Masada. And again, masada is an open blend. We can actually decide every year. If I shift it a little bit, in some years it will even have Pinoir. Some years it will have, if I could throw in some, even a small amount of white wine, okay.
Sam SofferSo it's really open. Do you put the grapes on the bottle? I don't think you do right. I do In.
Dr. Shivi DroriMasada we don't really describe very deeply, right, right yeah.
Sam SofferI leave it vague. It's a trust thing. I leave it vague, it's trust.
S. Simon JacobWhat about with the name razz?
Yiftach LustigOh, you just entered a world of pain.
Dr. Shivi DroriNo, idea what you just asked. I will take that back. We actually called it Sleepy Joe to start with. Okay, sleepy Joe.
Yiftach LustigWe had a name, we had everything set up and then we figured out someone else was using it. We made a lot of fun out of it.
Dr. Shivi DroriWe had five years to think of it and we came up with a lot of nonsense. Finally we thought of calling it Trump, I mean Jokely, and then we called it Sleepy Joe, and then we called it another, a lot of bunch of things. But finally there was a guy in a close by Ishu. He was a Yamam fighter, a very serious guy, and he fell in duty and his name was Razz, nom Razz. So we decided that his memory is the highest thing, that we see as the highest rank that we can think about.
S. Simon JacobYeah, beautiful.
Dr. Shivi DroriAnd the first thing we did is send her a window. They did an inauguration of the Kleset on his name and they opened this bottle there.
Kenney FriedmanYou put that on there. Will that be on the bottle or no? No, no, that's just your story, yeah.
Sam SofferGreat Great. I saw a picture of your uniform. You were active for a while there.
Dr. Shivi DroriI'm saying that I'm the responsible adult around here.
Sam SofferDrinking wine at 11 o'clock in the morning, that's very unique.
Dr. Shivi DroriOne, one, one, one of the three. Yeah, I'm sure I really like it.
Yiftach LustigI like the concept that he's very good, but he didn't like it.
Sam SofferLove this one.
Yiftach LustigYou want it. No, okay, yeah, yeah, good, wow, I'm going to show you.
Dr. Shivi DroriWow, I'm going to show you. You will see. You will see he's bringing you something from the barrel. We spoke about the vineyard that has no irrigation at all my vineyard near my house, which is a very important part of Razz and the Masada, you will taste it.
Yiftach LustigIt's about less than 10 barrels a year, but the whole laundry is based on that cloth, it gets a lot of the characteristics.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou will feel it it's something Well yeah. And this is the only vineyard that we ever thought about doing a single vineyard, because the roots are so deep and a very specific kind of soil there that it gets a lot of minerality and richness. You will taste it.
Yiftach LustigIf we ever do, a single vineyard it would be in the winery for five, six, 10 years before we release it because, yes, this is his bottle.
Sam SofferWhat grape is this Go round? Thank you, son.
S. Simon JacobThank you, I haven't tried this since we bought a little bit.
Yiftach LustigThank you, you're drinking.
Dr. Shivi DroriWe bought it, of course.
Yiftach LustigOf course, in my opinion this is not even the end of the window. This has no way to go. This is the very beginning.
S. Simon JacobI know, I knew it was going to taste like this.
Yiftach LustigThis is 7.10. This is a 6.11 wine acting like a 6.11 wine.
S. Simon JacobYeah, it tastes like this. It's awesome.
Dr. Shivi DroriOne was his bottle. Wait for it 2019.
Yiftach LustigNo 2019.
Kenney FriedmanThat's a two years in barrel For 2020.
Dr. Shivi DroriThree years in the bottle. Three years in the bottle and the bottle. And now it's selling. Can you try this for three years?
S. Simon JacobSorry.
Dr. Shivi DroriI had a few over the years.
Sam SofferNo, you didn't bring the.
Dr. Shivi DroriStilmarco right Clash on a thousand of these bottles. Yeah, yeah, I can't imagine what did you say? No, 600 bottles, that's it. I know what you said.
S. Simon JacobNo, you can't taste it.
Sam SofferI know what you said, I know what you said.
Dr. Shivi DroriWarm it a little bit.
S. Simon JacobThis is going to go into my cellar for a long time.
Sam SofferYeah, I'm going to put one also away.
Yiftach LustigThis is, I think, a cabinet patissiere. That's it, yeah.
Dr. Shivi DroriI'm going to open this another way.
Sam SofferWhat.
S. Simon JacobWhich of the wines comes out of that.
Dr. Shivi DroriWow, now it's perfumey.
S. Simon JacobWhat comes out of the vineyard? Out of that vineyard, what's wine? Wine is why.
Yiftach LustigI line up which vineyard, warming it up a little bit. We're not special vineyards. All of our vineyards are special wine.
S. Simon JacobWe're talking about a cab.
Yiftach LustigIt's completely a cab. There are a row and a half of Merlot there but it's 100% cab. It's a very small vineyard and a very particular one, and it gives us concentration, depth and richness that are not seen in the mincero.
Kenney FriedmanAnyway, I think it's all fat you have to warm it up, warm it up.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah.
Yiftach LustigIt gives you concentration, depth and depth I've not seen anywhere else. Wow.
Kenney FriedmanYeah, on my sweater.
Sam SofferIt's like a Masada on steroids.
Yiftach LustigVery good, yeah, it is.
Dr. Shivi DroriGood, good definition.
Yiftach LustigMasada on steroids. Yeah, because we were talking about our plots and everything.
Kenney FriedmanWe got you a barrel tasting our 2023 cab one New.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is fresh. This is six months in the barrel.
Kenney FriedmanA complex wine.
Yiftach LustigThat is really maybe an infant right now.
Sam SofferOkay, this is going to be the Gulf.
Yiftach LustigI just wanted you to understand the concentration the concentration that this lost.
Dr. Shivi DroriDon't drop the razz, okay, you drink the razz. You don't drop the razz.
Sam SofferNo, no, no. This is waste.
Yiftach LustigThese are kids, that's why I gave them some of it Okay this is also new wood.
Kenney FriedmanYou're a good son.
Yiftach LustigYou will see it, this is a vase.
Dr. Shivi DroriI didn't hear what this is this is the Cabernet we know near my house, cab 1, we call it. It's a very interesting oh out of that, out of that venue. You said Out of the barrel, six months old, wow An infant.
Yiftach LustigJust see the concentration. Okay, when we talk about concentration, it will understand. No, it's a 23.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, yeah, it's like it's in my house.
Kenney FriedmanIt's like yeah, it's like this one the concentration of that plot is this, but I find that razz approachable very much. I mean, I think it's like you can drink that now.
Dr. Shivi DroriYou can, you can, you can, but there's a few weight on it.
Yiftach LustigYeah for sure Two thousand seventeen minutes of that With the razz still has a long way to go.
Kenney FriedmanI found that. I found that Masada more like smack you on the face like too young, but the, the razz I found more approachable, maybe more crazy. It's much older, yeah, older.
Yiftach LustigYeah, it's sitting six years. You want to compare the Masada? Way too young, way too young, way too young.
Kenney FriedmanCompare wrong 17 to a.
Yiftach LustigMasada 17.
Sam SofferRight, right, right the Masada 17 is amazing, amazing, it's an amazing one. But it's what is? A six year old wine, right? This is a three year old one, seven.
Kenney FriedmanSeven. We're in 24.
Sam SofferOh, that's right, this is a beautiful bouquet, yeah this is a camp.
Kenney FriedmanInteresting nose.
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, warm it, because it's like 12 degrees, bring it up to 20.
Sam SofferYou drink one, you hold it from the stem If you want it to warm up.
Kenney FriedmanInteresting nose. If you want to warm up, give me your nose Earsiness.
Dr. Shivi DroriLeather, yeah, leather.
Yiftach LustigIt's a two more years in a barrel before, very, very unique, very unique, very interesting nose.
Sam SofferI would never guess this is.
Kenney FriedmanI wouldn't even know what to say about this.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is what happens when you grow a tempernée without any irrigation.
Sam SofferI would think this is a Spanish cab without irrigation, the concentration, something like that Something I would be full.
Kenney FriedmanYeah, like tempernée maybe Right. Yeah, it does smell Spanish.
Dr. Shivi DroriThank you, thank you so? Much. Put it in your mouth and you will understand the richness.
Yiftach LustigWhat yeah? Concentration richness. And this is amazing, this is still very twitchy.
Kenney FriedmanI would never guess cab for that. Acid yeah natural acid Major acid.
S. Simon JacobOh boy.
Kenney FriedmanDelicious.
S. Simon JacobWow.
Kenney FriedmanInteresting line. Very interesting line.
Sam SofferYou're gonna put this in. This is gonna be a gulfna wine.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt goes into gulfna cabbizer and the soda.
Kenney FriedmanYou wouldn't make this, just no.
Dr. Shivi DroriA single, a single, why not it?
Kenney Friedmanchanges.
Dr. Shivi DroriIt shifts.
Yiftach LustigIt shifts.
Dr. Shivi DroriThis is very new. It never stays like this, okay, you?
Yiftach Lustigmean every time If I would fall very young.
Dr. Shivi DroriMaybe for half a year it would stay like this, but then it evolves and it needs it. Will put a lot of complexity into blends, but it cannot stand alone.
Yiftach LustigVery so, very specifically it's too concentrated, it's too hard for and most people when they smell this kind of funkiness.
Kenney FriedmanYeah.
Dr. Shivi DroriThey won't really appreciate it. Yeah, do you. I can't put this.
Yiftach LustigYou've had nights where you drunk and your mouth is full of tannins. Yeah, this one will give it to you, that sensation within one glass. There's no way to finish a bottle. It's just too rich.
Sam SofferIt's just such a fascinating aroma, yeah.
Kenney FriedmanVery unique.
Yiftach LustigIt is Very special.
Kenney FriedmanAcid that blueberry is coming out.
Dr. Shivi DroriNow, blueberry is coming out. Did somebody say blueberry?
Kenney FriedmanYeah, now blueberry is coming out. It's a no, I don't get blueberry there. It's weird, I don't get blueberry.
S. Simon JacobYeah, because especially about that, like, if you want to take anything from this, visit.
Yiftach LustigThis is the fact that we are an estate binary and control our own plots.
Kenney FriedmanYeah.
Yiftach LustigOur cabs, our petite petite rondo, our We'll take a bottle of this this is a port styled wine that will be.
Dr. Shivi DroriWe don't make a port Once every like six, seven years. They make a port, something like that. We yeah, we age it for very, very long.
Yiftach LustigSo we age it for very long. We use Solace method, so it's an envy it does not have a vintage, it is. We're looking for a balance, which a lot of the ports in Israel are.
Dr. Shivi DroriSweet.
Yiftach LustigYeah, I'm going to be Not the static I'm going to be rude, right, but it is for very religious, very religious people. That's what, yeah, Exactly, they're looking for that concrete. They're looking for that men's shabbos, and for us we're trying to make a proper Guys warm it up a little bit. Proper fortified wine means a lot less sugars and just a lot more balance and a lot more spiciness and no alcohol.
Sam SofferBeautiful, this is beautiful.
Yiftach LustigThis is where I side with him against the CEO we're saying that was not ready.
Dr. Shivi DroriEvery year he says okay, now we were bowling, yeah.
Yiftach LustigNo, no, no, no no.
Sam SofferWhere are you going to ball it? It's beautiful. Wait a minute, Freddie.
Yiftach Lustigthis is what they should.
Sam SofferI'm involved in this for three years and we're getting close, but I'm still getting close.
S. Simon JacobDo you sell this? You don't have this balance.
Yiftach LustigReally.
Sam SofferIt's not yet decided when I'm bowling?
Dr. Shivi DroriWe don't, it's close?
Sam SofferYeah, it's close. Will this evolve in the bottle?
Dr. Shivi DroriYeah, this is actually infinite.
Kenney FriedmanBecause of the what If you need to take something out of a revolve and I'm going to say something that's very arrogant.
Yiftach LustigOkay. I am saying something that's very arrogant. This is the motto. We don't release anything less than perfect. We try If we have to. We have all In the three years I've been consulting. We've made a lot of decisions that cost this place a lot of money. I distill wine. Yeah, if it's not perfect, it's not coming out.
Dr. Shivi DroriOkay, I'm not looking to make the marginal profit out of bad wines, blending them into other.
Yiftach LustigNo.
Kenney FriedmanJust distill them, and I never understand it. There are wineries that come out with Literally I'm like how is that not bad for your business?
Yiftach LustigI don't like most sports. This is a good sport. No, that's why I like long term. The long term it's a financial. It has some complexity. It's beautiful. And that's part of the reason why we work so well together is because of the odd-crazy huge-crazy Patience, patience. It's impressive we make wine to our own standard and it has to be the highest standard. It doesn't work any other way.
Fortifying Port With 70% Alcohol
Sam SofferNo, it's a lot of alcohol in here. This is like 17.5 alcohol but that's it. What did you fortify at home? 95% or 77%?
Dr. Shivi DroriWe fortified it with 70% alcohol that was distilled from bad wines in the wine 70%.
Sam SofferLike a Like, a Like, a Like a port.
Yiftach LustigI just want to it's 18 months to find the right alcohol to fortify it with and, eventually, what we have to do is distill our own wine.
Sam SofferBecause that's the only thing that we trusted. But you use the 70%, not a crazy high percent. We had a lovely port last night, lovely From, I think, the total, beautiful no from the Aquaviraya, beautiful port and still the 95% alcohol. It was beautiful. This is very lovely.
Dr. Shivi DroriEnjoy it with your pizza and cheese.
Yiftach LustigThank you.
S. Simon JacobNo thank you.
Kenney FriedmanI can't believe we got all of you here. What a perfect.
S. Simon JacobThis is Simon Jacob, again your host of today's episode of the Kosher Terwa. I have a personal request no matter where you are or where you live, please take a moment to pray for our soldier's safety and the safety of our soldiers, and make sure you stay safe and rapid return of our hostages and, whenever possible, buy and share Israeli wine. I hope you have enjoyed this episode of the Kosher Terwa. It was exciting and informative for me as well. Please subscribe via your podcast provider to be informed of our new episodes as they are released. If you're new to the Kosher Terwa, please check out our many past episodes.